I have an '87 E150 302 van with the dual tank system. The selector valve gave me trouble- apparently it gave EVERYONE trouble. I had problems switching it at first. It was a nightmare because I really didn't know if I had gas or not because I wasn't sure which tank I was using. Then it just stuck on the rear tank. I decided to leave well enough alone and just use the rear tank. I couldn't expect the other tank to be useable so all I could ever do was use one anyways. The scary part is the switch seems to be set on "Front" but the rear tank is being used and has been for years, and there is bad gas in that front tank by now (I did try to drain most of it). Still I'm afraid to even touch that switch, it's working and I fear it.

Also, my fuel gauge usually does not read. Doesn't this get switched through the valve too? I seem to recall the schematics seem to say that.

Anyways, do I have any options for rebuilding or replacing that part? I couldn't find one at the parts store. A junkyard would be dumb since those old ones are probably more broken than mine. Does the dealership sell a better one now? I think the service records from the previous owner indicated they already replaced it so maybe the new one sucks just as bad. Is there an aftermarket one? I recall someone saying the problem was o-rings. If it's just that, could I rebuild it with some more fuel-resistant rings?

 

Check with www.partsamerica.com this is Advance Auto Parts they had one for my 91.

 

Cool! I did find one under '87. Do these need wires to be spliced in, it is it a direct plug-in replacement?

 

Danny --
There should only be 6 fuel line connections for the 87 - 91.. I believe the 86 did have electrical connections.

 

Well, I had a looksee under the vehicle and counted 5 wires on the connector rather than the 6 shown on the parts photo. I have a suspicion that my existing valve is not stock.

Now keep in mind I not only want to fix this by my fuel gauge problems. I looked in my Haynes AND Chiltons here. The Chilton's shows only 3 wires to the tank select valve for an '87 E150, and the schematic of the switch is clearly wrong because it shows the Tank Select Switch creating a dead short + to - while in the Front position. I don't know what to make of it.

I cannot find the schematic for the fuel gauge wires in either book. This is stupifying. Chilton's shows the fuel gauge wiring on the Chassis Wiring page for 61-65 Econoline but it is not on either page of Chassis Wiring for '87.

This is killing me because I can't change that valve until I drop the half-empty center tank and clean it up, but I need to know if the gauge problem comes from the sending unit so I can replace it at that time. I know I should ground the sending unit wire but I obviously need to know what the wire is first.

BTW, I see 3 of the 6 port tank valves here. One is characterized as "motor driven" which has my interest since one description of the problems with the stock valve claimed it was due to being driven only by the fuel pressure and it led to sticking. Any recommendations as to what I should prefer here?

 

got an 87 too. got the same trouble just not as bad. i also have a ford EVTS manual that shows 5 wires, so it could be stock. if you use the search for "selector"in the van forum you'll find a post on repairing the part. the o-rings break and cause fuel to leak from tank to tank from the return line or get stuck in one position. it's possible to fix with some new rings but not always. the guy put up pics of the whole process. it's mechanical operating by the 10 psi from the tank pumps. most folks just replace the valve but the switch and wires are availible if ness. good luck.

 

as for the switch itself the book shows 6 wires. black being the ground(which is grounded above your brake pedal on the metal "y" brace). check this connection.
if you click my name, then galleries, then "dash photo", then scroll down to enlarge you'll see a pic i posted to help someone find this ground. a pen points to the spot and the exploded view on the bottom right shows what the ground con. looks like.

i may be able to photo my schematic page and put it in my galley for u if u need it.

 

ok, i checked the link and saw the to valves. depending on when it was made in 87 the might be either valve. your gonna have to take a close look at what you have. i'll check mine in the morning. the pics the other poster had list on repair was a very different looking valve than the ac/delcos on the site. that one shows a valve with a round cup on the bottom. get a close look to see if it's mechanical or motor driven.
sorry to spam you guys with the multible posts.

 

So should I go for whatever says "motor driven" or not? Can either one fit in there regardless of the stock pump's type?

I do need to replace the wires. For some reason, the insulation on 4 of the 5 wires is cut like 1/4" from the plug and it's plenty oxidized though close inspection shows still intact (for now). Looks deliberate, I think a yahoo mechanic may have wanted to read the voltage to figure out why the tanks wouldn't switch and thought piercing the insulation would be the quickest way. Butthead. And he did it so close to the plug it's impossible to fix with a proper splice and heatshrink.

I won't have any trouble finding ground and I shouldn't have any trouble finding out which is the + for the front tank switch and which is the + for the rear tank. But what of the other 2 wires? What on earth do they do? It's not an external limit switch for a motor-driven device, is it? Another thought was maybe it is the tank sending units and the selector valve also mechanically switched them when the valve switched. The plausibility here is boosted by the observation that the sender wires aren't found anywhere on the schematics. I assume they do something since they made a connector for it, but I have no way to verify their wiring when I don't know what they do. Does anyone have a schematic which shows the colors and functions of all these wires?

 

i put up some pics. click my name, the veiw gallery, then enlarge the photos toward the bottom of the page. the close up of the switch shows a black wire to ground 203. this is the ground i mentioned and have other pics of up. check this ground!!!. the othere wire at the top of that photo goes to the starter relay. you may be able to print the pics and piece toghther the close ups to make more sense of them. if i scan the page it will take a while to email. i haven't figured out how to "compress" scans to make them easier to send. i'll get back to you on any questions i can answer. good luck.

 

to help clear upthe pics. the switch shows 6 cons with one short one connecting 3 and 4.
1 is a br/o going to #2 on the valve.
2 is r/br going to the inertia switch then the starter relay.
3 goes back to 4 on the switch with a r/y wire.
4 is r/y to #1 on the valve.
5 is black to the ground above your brake pedal.
6 is br/or back to #1 on the seleclor switch.

 

Ah! I see what it does now.

The first two wires power the valve's motor. The selector switch reverses the +/- to make it run backwards so it goes the other way and switches back to the first tank, thus only 2 wires are used and there is no fixed ground on this side of the selector switch.

The valve uses the mechanical position of the motor to select one of the two tank senders, this occupies the other 3 wires.

Perhaps my valve is stuck where the tank sender switch is between the two contacts, thus no reading on the fuel gauge.

This is excellent. I can diagnose it from this!

 

cool, glad i could help. looks like u understand it better than myself. your descripction makes sense looking at the pic. i'm just about to swap tires on mine and i'm gonna check mine to see if it's motor driven. i think mine isn't cause fuel travels from one tank to another which is a prob with the mechanical ones. at least i'll know one way or another. i wasn't expecting anywires down there so you might have saved me from ordering the wrong part. good luck. keep us posted.

 

I went ahead and ordered the new switch from Advanced Automotive (they're a vendor for www.partsamerica.com).

Now I'm going to pull that long disused tank to clean it and replace the in-tank pump for the heck of it. The manual says to replace a gasket for the sender/fuel pump at the same time. However, the Advanced guys have no gasket listed. Does it use one or not? Or should I just use silicone?

 

The sixth post on the valve (AC7001) is just plain unused. The valve does not even have a contact inside the cavity.