I just bought a 1995 F350 4x4 crew cab with 57K miles. It gives off what we used to call "Tappet Ticking" when its cold, then goes away after about 20-50 degrees warm up or 1 - 3 miles.

What could it be, or better. What should I check and or repair to get it back to never tickin.
thanks
Bob

 

First off, are you sure it's not 157,000 miles instead? If it doesn't have that many miles on it, how did the previous owner treat it? If they ran it out of oil once or twice on accident, the lifters could be sticking due to that. When you run an engine low, or out of, oil, the pump will suck up cr*p on the bottom of the pan and it could shove some debris into the lifter making it stick and tick. I would try a quart of ATF mixed in with your oil to clean things out, do an oil change after 100 miles or so and then add some Z-max or something like that to quiet things down a bit. Good Luck!

Dan

 

The miles are traced, history goes like this..It didnt travel far but it worked those miles.
It is a clean truck, no rattles squeeks, small hidden parts say the miles are right.

I cant say it wasnt run low or there isnt gunk down in there.
I like the idea of cleaning it out as you suggest.

That sounds like a good place to start.

Thanks
Bob

 

I had a ticking sound noise on my 83 ford, it was an exhaust leak caused by a broken manifold bolt. It made the ticking sound till the engine heated up and then it went away. I thought it was a valve issue at first.....

 

I'll count heads (on bolts) this weekend. Hopefully its a nice eZ fix.

 

I've got a '93, put headers on due to the same problem. It had two broken manifold studs. Once heated up, the exhaust manifold seemed to "seal". I think this was a pretty common problem on 460s.

 

Hey Bob, Im a mechanic and am into this problem big time. I also have a 95 e-350 Van of my own with this problem Im working on now. Yes you will find an exhaust leak. Check particularly the back right exhaust manifold stud, probably broken off. This problem is so common on 460's that it is usually a question of when it will happen not if it will happen. To make a long story short, the only permanent cure is headers. Dont waste your money on Ford's "new" manifolds cause they go bad too. The best but most expensive setup is the Banks headers and exhaust but the important thing is to do headers-Thorleys or L&L are good also. If you dont fix the problem you run the risk of the back right corner of the head can break off-cost big bucks. The reason this can happen is that the back right manifold bolt hole is not threaded all the way down like you would imagine; it only is threaded about 1/2 inch and then there is a wide open hole where the head bolt comes down- a real design flaw. Many 460's break off the back right corner and some have even broke off the left corner too. Your in for a big job if you do it yourself. Maybe you'll luck out and not break any studs at the head line-alot of fun for sure. A few tools that really make this job easier is Snap-Ons longest breaker bar and also their longest 14 mm box wrench. If you find you have a broken or cracked head at the corner, it is possible to mig weld a repair to seal it up-yes i know your not suppose to be able to do it on cast iron but it will weld just fine by a competent welder. Good luck

 

Thanks I think you are right. Im an audio engineer and thats where the noise is coming from.
I priced header installation..the quote is $650 labor only..whew is that right? Heddmans are 339, thorleys are 650, plus install...is this right or high?
Thank you again.

 

AH may thats where my ticking is coming from but i now for sure
that my left front bolt is snapped off.

 

I put Thorleys on mine 7 yrs ago, very happy w/them.

 

The header prices you are quoting are about right. I looked at Thorleys for my van and they wanted $800. My rig is a motorhome and I figured that If I did the Thorleys a year or 2 down the road Id have to do the rest of the system for another 500 so I figured shoot-I might as well do the banks for 1800 and be done with it forever cause it's 100% stainless all the way to the end of the tailpipe. Its a horrible job on a van and not one you ever want to do twice. Incidentally, if any of you guys break a stud off at the head Banks sells a special tool jig and drill bit to get it out-cost a 100 bucks I think.