Serpentine belt maintenance interval?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Whitefish MT
Serpentine belt maintenance interval?
Does anyone else get irritated with the factory documentation that, in effect, says "you're too stupid to work on this... and our dealerships need to make money"?
Can anyone tell me the recommended interval for changing the serpentine belt? Just curious.
I realize there's an upper radiator hose in the way, which I'll probably end up switching out for the ambulance-model/dual-alternator model (so I don't have to move it to change the belt).
I'm presently at ~35,000 miles... and just wondering.
Thanks in advance for any tips!
Can anyone tell me the recommended interval for changing the serpentine belt? Just curious.
I realize there's an upper radiator hose in the way, which I'll probably end up switching out for the ambulance-model/dual-alternator model (so I don't have to move it to change the belt).
I'm presently at ~35,000 miles... and just wondering.
Thanks in advance for any tips!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 194
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From: White Lake
'96 F350 PSD 187,000 miles.
I'm on my 4th belt. I get about 40K on them before
i started getting worried. The first one broke at about 50k.... WOW is that thing
hard to steer!!! after that i keep an eye on it. Murrays Auto gives me a lifetime warranty, so i always keep a spare. Check the Idler & Tensioner pulleys too!!!
gone through a set of those too. Don't know what year your truck is, but the
'96 is easy to change, once you get the hang of it.
I'm on my 4th belt. I get about 40K on them before
i started getting worried. The first one broke at about 50k.... WOW is that thing
hard to steer!!! after that i keep an eye on it. Murrays Auto gives me a lifetime warranty, so i always keep a spare. Check the Idler & Tensioner pulleys too!!!
gone through a set of those too. Don't know what year your truck is, but the
'96 is easy to change, once you get the hang of it.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 137
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My 99 F350 has no hoses in the way, the radiator hose has no effect on removing or installing a new belt.
Since I had to take my belt on and off quite a few times while replacing my Compressor, it got to the point where it only took about 2 minutes.
I carry two spares now, one (shorty) that bypasses the compressor, (just in case the ac compressor bearing ever freezes up again), and one to replace the stock one if it breaks.
Also, I would recommend carrying the 1/2 in breaker-bar to relieve the tension pulley, when installing a new belt if the old one fails.
Since I had to take my belt on and off quite a few times while replacing my Compressor, it got to the point where it only took about 2 minutes.
I carry two spares now, one (shorty) that bypasses the compressor, (just in case the ac compressor bearing ever freezes up again), and one to replace the stock one if it breaks.
Also, I would recommend carrying the 1/2 in breaker-bar to relieve the tension pulley, when installing a new belt if the old one fails.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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if you are running the premium quaility belt, you should get 50 -70k out of it, easily. lifetime warranty is great, BUT it does not do you any good on the side of the interstate, SO carry a spare belt and tools to change it..then you can warranty the failed belt later. you should always check under your hood at least once a week and that includes your belt. it's a whole lot easier to change the belt at your home than on the side of the road when the engine is hot and conditions are ussually at thier worst.
good day!
good day!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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What do you look for, when determining it's time to change the belt? Cracks?smoothed out grooves? Mine does not look bad in any way, and I have no idea how many miles are on it. Hate to spend time and money fixing something that ain't broke, but don't want to be stranded either.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 301
Likes: 1
From: East Texas
Originally Posted by rockyrider
What do you look for, when determining it's time to change the belt? Cracks?smoothed out grooves? Mine does not look bad in any way, and I have no idea how many miles are on it. Hate to spend time and money fixing something that ain't broke, but don't want to be stranded either.
I'am not recommending anyone to go that distance, jest what i have done.
gseeders
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 1
From: Newport News
I just changed mine with 113000 on the clock, the belt was fine, but I just changed it to be on the safe side. I kept the old one in the truck as a spare just in case. I also replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys (26 bucks for both at CarQuest) because the bearings were squealing. I was just gonna get new bearings, but went ahead and replaced everything. Cheap insurance IMHO...
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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My truck has 130k on the original belt and it looked great while it was on. I travel a LOT during the summer so decided to change it for the peace of mind factor and found that some of the ribs were cracked and broken. Couldn't see those while it was on but it sure made me feel good about taking 10 minutes to change it out. Sure beats doing it at 2am on a mountain road in a rainstorm. I put the old one in the truck box since it will get me to civilization if the new one breaks.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Virginia - SW (Riner)
Belt Change
I change mine @ every 45K. Cheap insurance when you consider the $$ spent on a tow or the old addage: It'll break @ the worst possible time in the worst possible place. I'd rather spend a few $$ and change it on a nice warm day in garage over changing it @ 2:00am in the snow/rain on the side of the interstate with semis wizzing by @ 75mph.
Just my 2 cts,
DG
Just my 2 cts,
DG
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 776
Likes: 42
From: STL MO
I was trying to replace my CPS today. It started the "normal skipping" a few days ago. In the process of doing that, I discovered that my tensioner is not working right. when you losen the torque bolt on the off-centered pully, nothing happens. I figured that the two parts of the tensioner must be stuck together over time. So, I did it the hard way, taking off the alternator, replaced the CPS and used a 6:1 faddle block (well, I'm a tree trimmer. Lucky me!) to put the alternator back. It's tough, but I managed to put everything back together in an hour. Question: How can I get the tensioner out w/o having to take out the other pully (I think it's an other iderler). When I completely removed the bolt on the tensioner, it won't come out in one piece. I have to somehow seperate the two parts of the tensioner or remove the other ideler. Thanks. Erwin
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