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Old May 12, 2005 | 04:22 AM
  #16  
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JBronco
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
Originally Posted by poffutt
You know the way a bronco has more response in the peddle in the morning when engin is cold
I'm not trying to be a smarta$$ but no, I've never noticed that. With fuel injection working properly, my Bronco runs the same from the moment I start it to the moment that I turn it off. I don't feel the need to take anything off.

As far as a stock motor is concerned, there is nothing that I can do to make my Bronco's motor run any better than it does now. I can honestly say that it runs perfectly, 100 percent of the time. Always a dead smooth idle and crisp throttle response.

The only modification that I would ever make would be to install a whole new, high performance motor, which would be great if I could afford it. Since I can't, I will leave my perfect running 131K bone stock motor just the way Ford made it. But if removing the lines gave you some noticeable power, and it never freezes where you live, I can't really see anything wrong with that. It's possible that it could affect the computer somehow, but you would notice that in the form of check engine lights.
 
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Old May 12, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #17  
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HMA-169
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: China Spring, TX (Waco)
I agree with the boys in saying don't mess with what the factory set up unless you have a specific goal in mind and are willing to accept the trade-offs. The EGR is used to introduce exhaust gases into the intake to lower combustion temperatures which reduce some undesireable emissions. Exhaust gases obviously being hot will degrade performance by raising intake air temps and the EGR valve itself get hot as heck. The coolant lines are to control the extreme temperatures with the added benefit of improving engine warmup.

My 96 5.8 has everything intact. My 93 5.0 Mustang has the EGR valve and spacer removed and the exhaust port in the upper intake plugged. The good news is that it make a big difference in power (and saves weight). The bad news is the Check Engine light - I used a wiring diagram to determine which wire coming from the EEC was responsible and disconnected it. I have a buddy that has had problems trying to run without the EGR - knocking. The EEC has a set of timing curves it uses in normal operation. If the EGR is inop, the EEC uses a different set of curves - sort of a limp home mode.

My two cents in the whatever its worth department.

cds
 
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