Ok, my build has been suffering a number of problems, some of the important ones I will describe here:

Rocker adjusting screw hitting valve cover oil baffle - corrected.
PCV system fowling plugs - corrected. Used odd looking glass marbles for landscaping, filled PCV breather can with them, they filter oil out very well. And no, they cant get out.
Fuel injection swapped back to carb - troubleshooting, not really a problem.
New coil, MSD Blaster 2 - Again, troubleshooting. Didn't help.
91 octane premium - didn't change a thing from 89 or 87. NOT A THING.
6 BTDC timing instead of 10. Didn't help a thing.

The symptoms were as follows:
Seemed to be pinging. Made a little ticking type noise above 2000rpm. I assumed it was a ping. Most of the above things I tried were to alleviate ping. It's been getting worse, and lately it stumbles going down the road, more with throttle.

Until tonight, when the truck told me what was wrong. I start it up, and try to go. Hit the gas, it stumbles and has no power. Idle, it smoothes out. Now I know. It's not getting gas. That's probably been my problem all along. At first it was just a little low fuel pressure, making it run lean. Now, things have clogged up better, and it barely runs. So this means the gas tank is coming out. I've had it, it's got loads of gunk in it and has done this before.

Now then, would you:
1. Remove and try to clean the gas tank
2. Get a replacement gas tank, of so, where?
3. Ditch the stupid in-the-cab gas tank and get an aftermarket universal type fuel cell.
4. It's not the gas tank stuipd, try...

Let me know!

 

Have you read any of the hundreds of posts about acetone? Type acetone into the FTE search & you'll see the subject has come up plenty. One thread ran over 100 posts about a year ago & I ran an experiment on a diesel & posted plenty. One guy did try it in his (older) truck & he had to rejet the carb after it got cleaned out.
Is the problem with the gas tank rust or "gum"? Acetone won't help if it's rust, so that would require a new/different tank.
AL.
P.S. The diesel is still running with no fuel system leaks or any signs of it being damaged by the acetone.

 

Yes, I did read about it, and yes, I tried it. And yes, it didn't do anything.

I think the problem is rust. I looked at the bottom of the fuel filter today (one of those clear ones) and there was a nice little collection of small rust particles in the bottom of it.

Perhapse I should ask:

If I were to remove and try to clean the gas tank, HOW exactly would I clean it?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...+tank+cleaning
AL.

 

Looks good. I'll pull the tank tomorrow and clean it. While I have it removed, I'll put some hydrochloric acid in it to dissolve the rust, then some baking soda to remove the acid. But then, how to remove the baking soda?

Assuming I rinse it with water, how to get the water out?

 

After you blow it out with compressed air, pour in a quart of gas line antifreeze & swish it around real good.
AL.

 

I've been successful at cleaning tanks before by taking them off and taking them to a car wash. Lot's of hot water and suds. If it's really rusty you may end up with leaks afterward though. I cleaned a tank one time and had several leaks after I got it clean. If you braze or solder repair it's recommended that you steam clean for I think about 30 minutes to heat the metal very hot and get rid of all traces of gasoline to prevent fume buildup that could ignite. Good Luck!

 

I've ran into this a couple times before. The first time in a '79 F100 I could never get it cleaned enough, it was just to rusty. I would clean the heck out of it and it just went to clogging filters again so I replaced the tank with one from the wrecking yard.

The next was in my 65' Coronet. It had been running poorly and cutting out/surging. Took the carb apart and found dirt in it. The tank wasn't super rusty or dirty so I removed it and steam cleaned it. Came out looking like new inside and I haven't had a problem since.

 

Here's a vote for a fuel cell. It will be clean, and force you to upgrade your plumbing as well (If you have not already). Put some speakers and/or tools behind your seat :-) Mine is a little incovenient in the bed. But with the long bed, I manage. Mine is just 16 gallons, so I may add a nother tank the same size later. Since the tanks have two outlets I'll be able to join them and use the one sending unit to indiacate the level for both. I may put a valve in between in case I want to lighten up for a track trip.

 

Have you examined the pickup tube and sock yet?? I'm guessing you have, does it still have the sock on it??

Have you replaced ALL the rubber lines?(only two pcs. on it). I would make sure you have good flow thru the lines before taking serious steps.

As for cleaning tank, try a hunk of clean chain. A couple foot of heavy 3/8" link chain slid around the inside of tank will knock most anything loose. Seen it on TV once. Then rinse it out with water and let dry in sun.

Just a short story, my Galaxie had a rusty tank(from sitting many years). I installed one of those little plastic filters. After a couple years the filter filled up pretty well, I replaced it and it has since seemed to clear itself up. I kept the tank pretty full at all times and it seemed to wash the rust out. Granted, not the correct fix, but it worked this time. To this day it still works great.

I have a fuel cell in my '69. Only cause it was on return table at Summit(cheap!). It also makes for better weight distribution for "racing". It's a 16 or so gal unit, clear so I know how much fuel I have by just turning around in my seat and looking thru back window(nifty idea, huh?).

 

I have yet to examine the pickup tube and sock. Now that you mention it, that's probably where I should start. It has all new rubber hoses, filters, and a new mechanical fuel pump (was running an electrical pump with the fuel injection).

 

My 2 cents, I installed (2) large cheap clear plastic filters from A/Z side by side before the elect. pump on the 70' long bed, before I sold it. Cost me about $5.00 more. But, I had twice the catching power.

I hope this isn't a dumb question but, is your pump as close to your tank as possible. I had first put mine after my rebuild on the 71' short bed, in the front. Under the drivers side frame. Only occasionally would it spit and sputter
and sometimes even die. I read a post that someone else had the same problems and moved it to the rear. It has a tendancy to vaporlock in the front. Has worked fine since with no more problems.

Robert P.

 

Rusty, Take the fuel line apart at the far end of the filter, and with aditional hose reconnected, put it in a small mouth bottle like a 2 liter coke bottle. Pull the dist wire and have someone turn the engine over while you watch the flow of the gas. Unless it's dribbling you will be getting enough gas to the carb.

No need to reinvent the wheel if it's still rolling.

John

 

Sorry, missed that.

Robert P.

 

I would install two inline filters, big ones, before and after the fuel pump. Keep an eye on em and see if they fill up. That way, youll have three filters, one before the pump, on the pump, and after the pump. My 66 sat for 20 years before I bought it and have no problems with rust, yet. Granted I live in the southwest where things dont rust much. I run and inline filter as well as the filter on the mechnical fuel pump. Also make sure you replace the filter on the pump. FERacing66