Computer Upgrade or?
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 27
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From: The Shakey State
Computer Upgrade or?
HI,
What I have is a 1990 5.8L.
Q#1; Is there a computer upgrade or something I can do to this computer to give it a little more poop?
Q#2; What steps are needed to set or check the timing? Does anyone have a picture and instructions?
Q#3; Maybe someone could help me on where I could look for a leak. This engine has 10K on a rebuild, and had an oil and water leak on the back of the engine. The place that rebuilt it said there is nothing wrong (how can a shop get away with this). I have looked and narrowed it down to the back of the engine. You know how tight things are on a 5.8L and automatic, so any ideas?
Thanks, Keep on Bronco'n
Herc 5HP
What I have is a 1990 5.8L.
Q#1; Is there a computer upgrade or something I can do to this computer to give it a little more poop?
Q#2; What steps are needed to set or check the timing? Does anyone have a picture and instructions?
Q#3; Maybe someone could help me on where I could look for a leak. This engine has 10K on a rebuild, and had an oil and water leak on the back of the engine. The place that rebuilt it said there is nothing wrong (how can a shop get away with this). I have looked and narrowed it down to the back of the engine. You know how tight things are on a 5.8L and automatic, so any ideas?
Thanks, Keep on Bronco'n
Herc 5HP
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
1) Yes, there are aftermarket chips available for improving performance but they are not cheap.
2) To set the "base timing" you have to warm the engine to opertatiing temp. Shut it off. Remove the SPOUT connector. (Check the red link in my signature for info as to where it is and what it does). Restart the truck with a timing light already connected. Check the decal under the hood but, the base timing should be about 10-12* BTDC. Adjust as necessary by loosening the distributor clamp bolt and rotating the distributor. Once proper base timing is set, retighten the clamp bolt, disconnect the timing light and re-install the SPOUT connector. DONE.
3) If the leak is BOTH oil AND water from the same area, Id' suspect the rebuilder damaged a head gasket when installing them. The only other location that water might leak is at the very back of the lower intake. There is a coolant cross-over port in the lower intake that connects the left and right cylinder heads if the lower intake-to-cylinder head gasket has a problem, it can leak here.
2) To set the "base timing" you have to warm the engine to opertatiing temp. Shut it off. Remove the SPOUT connector. (Check the red link in my signature for info as to where it is and what it does). Restart the truck with a timing light already connected. Check the decal under the hood but, the base timing should be about 10-12* BTDC. Adjust as necessary by loosening the distributor clamp bolt and rotating the distributor. Once proper base timing is set, retighten the clamp bolt, disconnect the timing light and re-install the SPOUT connector. DONE.
3) If the leak is BOTH oil AND water from the same area, Id' suspect the rebuilder damaged a head gasket when installing them. The only other location that water might leak is at the very back of the lower intake. There is a coolant cross-over port in the lower intake that connects the left and right cylinder heads if the lower intake-to-cylinder head gasket has a problem, it can leak here.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: The Shakey State
I just got the renewal notice, and I have to have it smogged. Will this hurt the outcome of the test, I'm in California.
I understand that CRC makes a product called "Guarantied To Pass", what do you think about that stuff?
Thanks
Herc 5HP
I understand that CRC makes a product called "Guarantied To Pass", what do you think about that stuff?
Thanks
Herc 5HP
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