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Arugh!!!! I'm LIVID. NY State wants me to sell my old (86)Pickup and buy a new one. The emission inspection is hammering every older car and truck in sight. ENOUGH RANTING.
I need to rebuild the carb on my 86 460. I've done the single barrel Carter on my old F100/6 and numerous cycle carbs. Do I need to hire a professional brain surgeon or shall I do the deed my self.
On the same theme, if I opt to buy a rebuilt carb, would I be better off with an after market performance carb, or is that just a heartache waiting to happen.
I'm looking to tackle this over the upcoming weekend so any responses would be appreciated.
Gary
if you are anywhere near Oneonta, NY, there is a good carb man in Treadwell, NY. I believe his company is called Threadwel Carb. phone is area code 607-829- ... and from there you are on your own. His name is Jim Leightenberger -- or something like that. He is good enough that he is usually backlogged. good luck!
I dont know if this will help your decision any but I rebuilt the edelbrock on my truck and it was pretty easy. I didnt know the first thing about a carb. when I did it. Id say go for it, save that money for a new cat or something.
I had a scummy old motorcraft 2v on my old pickup and when I wanted to do something about it I was strongly encouraged to forget trying to rebuild it. I was urged to buy a Carter AFB/Edelbrock (both Weber USA). The idea being that unless I wanted to constantly tweak on the carb (Holley) that they are very dependenble and when needing rebuilding, very rebuildable. I bought a 600cfm Edelbrock for my 302, and have transfered it to my 390 (when the 302 went bad) and have enjoyed a very trouble free fuel delivery. I have a buddy that tried to rebuild two Q-jets for his Chev van and ended up getting the Carter AFB, and it kicks over the Q-jet (flat spots went away, and better mileage).
If you rebuilt the carbs for scooters, you should have no problem with a 4V, the procedures are basically the same. No slides though! If you do decide to rebuild yourself, make sure you get a complete kit. For aftermarket, I would also recomend the Eldebrock/Carter carbs, had a holley and will never go back. Tunin' one of these is really easy-you can lean it way down for the test and then change rods to get it runnin' good again-if needed, the jets are also much, much easier to change in these. The only thing you will need, if you go this way, is the metering rod, step-up spring and jet kit to go along with the model of carb. This has everything needed to tweek, and as mentioned above, once you get it tuned, it seems to "hold" the tune, I only make one rod change for winter/summer and this takes longer to get the air cleaner off and out of the way than it does to change the rods! Chuck P.
e/brock definately. I have done a ch??? 350 and my 84 f150- 302 with excellant results. Summit racing has these for a little over $200 shipping. I have had lousy results with rebuilts. I was told that if carbs are turned upside down when they are removed the dirt in the bottom of the bowl gets all through the ports and really messes them up. Usually for good. I'm not sure about emissions on the edlbrocks as we have been able to duck that bullet so far around here. Good luck--Hope this helps.
Back again,
I went to Summit, and they have lots of carbs and the prices look good.
The # on my carb tag is E5PE BFA. Its says motocraft elsewhere on the carb. Can anybody cross reference this # to a manufacturer. I'm still hunting it down.
Thanks Slik,
I went to the site (Edelbrook) and it was pretty helpful.
I don't think my truck has an EGR system. There are air pumps and I think they are connected to the four tubes (per side) that go into the exhaust manifolds. What should I look for to make certain that its EGR-less. They don't have a street legal carb for this engine with EGR,unless I'm miss reading something.
I've got an e.mail off to their tech dept. Just the same I feel like I'm making some progress.
WOW.....browsing their site makes me wish for a BIG money tree !!!! I'll be happy to have a darn inspection sticker.
The EGR valve is a pot that connects to a what looks like a carb spacer at the between the manifold and the carb. It is usually mounted toward the back of the carb and should have a vacuum hose coming out of it and running to a vacuum tree that is mounted in your thermostat housing. My '82 had one, so I think your '86 should probably have one too. But I noticed on my last inspection, the inspector checked N/A on the smog pumps and the EGR. (Someone stole my smog pump, bless their soul.) I wouldn't worry too much about about the smog legal stamp or sticker for the carb. If you got all the other peripheral equipment hooked up, the inspector cannot tell whether the carb itself is steet legal or not. I put the 600 cfm with electric choke on my 351W and it works great. I put an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it with a 4V EGR plate, slapped a new EGR valve on and it worked great.
I don't know where you live but in the Puget Sound area of WA, the inspectors will not open your hood, unless you've failed twice and are requesting a waiver. You just need to blow a good reading out your pipes. With a good fresh carb tuned right you needn't worry around here. Don't ask some people too many questions, or they will tell you the legal answer. I couldn't get anybody here to tell me that they would put duel exhaust on my 76 that originally had a catalyst 300 in it. Even though many 76 were non catalyst. Untill I plunked down some money I would only get the safe answer. I believe that EGR is more an issue with changing the intake manifold than just the carb. Do you have a 4v manifold or would you need to get one. In the magazine ads you don't see all the availible Edelbrock manifolds, just the common ones. For more bucks many EGR versions are availible.
Big Brown,
I'm surprised that folks would play it so "safe" on a posting board like this. Sice we're all here for the same (FORD) reason, I'd expect some open dissusion on what works and what doesn't. I'm pretty happy with the thread response so far.
Here in NYC area, the emissions test had gone over the edge. NJ is close behind and its MOST unfair to low and middle class folks who are grateful that their cars start and get them to work. I'm NOT looking to start a socio-political thread though. I'm going to fix my truck the best I can.
Tomorrow is going to be 50 and dry here in NYC so I'll find the EGR valve and confirm one way or the other. This is a non-cat truck (86). I thought it had an AIR system that pumped air into the exhaust to promote combustion of any remaining fuel. Back to the book. Theres the routing map of the vacuum hoses and that should point out the EGR valve.
I'll post what I find tomorrow. I don't recall seeing a spacer though. Looked like the carb sat right on the manifold. Shall see.....
My '82 had a cat on it. Smog pumps were put on vehicles in the mid to late '70s. You should have smog pumps, cats, and EGR for your year. But, it's great of you can get by without them. Good luck!!