hot coil
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
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hot coil
Hi everyone.I have a 65 ford f-100 with a 300-6cyl.I only have about 1000 miles on it since I completed it.It has been bored 30 over with a mild cam a clifford intake with a Eldelbrock 4 barrel.I used a Kwik-wire wiring harness.Anyway to make this short I have gone thru 3 coil they are getting real hot and them failing.I was wondering if I installed a ballest resister in it as I don't have one now does anyone think that this might help.Any info would be helpful as I would like to go farther than 200 miles without this problem occuring TKS!!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
Likes: 3
From: Winchendon MA
Yes you need the resistor. The stock harness has a resister wire in it and you've eliminated it with thew aftermarket kit. Get the resistor or get a coil that don't need one. MSD and Axcell make them with it built in.
One other thing to check is the alt to see if it's over charging.
44dwarf
One other thing to check is the alt to see if it's over charging.
44dwarf
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
You went to the trouble of rebuilding the 300, including some nice stuff like a cam, cliffy intake and 4 bbl carb, but you are using points ignition?
Now, rather than start the old points versus electronic war again, I will concede that points, SET RIGHT, REPLACED OFTEN, AND CHECKED FREQUENTLY, can be AS GOOD AS electronic ignition. NOT BETTER.
And failing all of the above, the points are almost always inferior. The issues of reliablity etc come up too.
Anyhow, I have been there with my 65 240, which is/was identical to your 300 for the most part.
What kind of distributor do you have on there? There are real issues here, as some 300s in 65 would have possibly had a loadomatic, vacuum advance only type. But more likely that not, you have a dual advance dizzy that has a mechanical (centrifugal) advance as well as the vacuum advance.
44dwarf is correct -- you need a resistor in any case. But, you should consider more ignition upgrades than just the coil.
Want original appearance (which I doubt, given that the edelbrock 4bbl looks rather non-standard already) then you need a pertronix,
Want cheap, reliable and good, go Duraspark II from a 70's 300. Couple that to a hotter coil and you will see a little performance increase. Plus no more burned out coils.
Now, rather than start the old points versus electronic war again, I will concede that points, SET RIGHT, REPLACED OFTEN, AND CHECKED FREQUENTLY, can be AS GOOD AS electronic ignition. NOT BETTER.
And failing all of the above, the points are almost always inferior. The issues of reliablity etc come up too.
Anyhow, I have been there with my 65 240, which is/was identical to your 300 for the most part.
What kind of distributor do you have on there? There are real issues here, as some 300s in 65 would have possibly had a loadomatic, vacuum advance only type. But more likely that not, you have a dual advance dizzy that has a mechanical (centrifugal) advance as well as the vacuum advance.
44dwarf is correct -- you need a resistor in any case. But, you should consider more ignition upgrades than just the coil.
Want original appearance (which I doubt, given that the edelbrock 4bbl looks rather non-standard already) then you need a pertronix,
Want cheap, reliable and good, go Duraspark II from a 70's 300. Couple that to a hotter coil and you will see a little performance increase. Plus no more burned out coils.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Wellston USA
Larry65
I upgraded both my 66s to the DuraSpark II. Made several mistakes before I got everything right. Take meter and measure the voltage at each side of the coil (should be horseshoe conector) I think the + will read 12+ volts and the - side should read aboust 8+ v when running. If it also reads above 12 you need to put a resisstor in the r circuit from the solenoid to make it read 6+ volts. Be sure to use a electronic coil. New stock coils are from 12 to 20 new. The DuraSparkII is a very reliable setup and sure makes the old truck start quicker less skiping and stalling. The old points was fine when that was all we had but I sure like the new electronic system for a good upgrade. Hope this will help. It worked for me over a year ago and the old truck runs better.
Trapper
I upgraded both my 66s to the DuraSpark II. Made several mistakes before I got everything right. Take meter and measure the voltage at each side of the coil (should be horseshoe conector) I think the + will read 12+ volts and the - side should read aboust 8+ v when running. If it also reads above 12 you need to put a resisstor in the r circuit from the solenoid to make it read 6+ volts. Be sure to use a electronic coil. New stock coils are from 12 to 20 new. The DuraSparkII is a very reliable setup and sure makes the old truck start quicker less skiping and stalling. The old points was fine when that was all we had but I sure like the new electronic system for a good upgrade. Hope this will help. It worked for me over a year ago and the old truck runs better.
Trapper
