Need locknut/wheel hub help bad
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 152
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Need locknut/wheel hub help bad
I borrowed a socket from someone, took the wheel nut off, took the rotor off, cleaned everything up and put the new bearings and seal in and put the rotor on. Now I have no idea how much torque the locknut needs, but I tighten it to 160 (I read that somewhere, and now realize that is wrong). At 160, the wheel is pretty hard to turn, but turns smooth. Then I realize the hub mechanisms have seperated from the locknut. I go to put it back on, and realize the neck of the locknut has mushroomed out and cracked. Now I need a new locknut. I've also noticed that the gap between the splines and the threads for the locknut is gone, and there is no place to put the washers and the C clip. Any ideas what happened? How much torque should I have used on the locknut? What has happened to the gap between the threads and splines? This is for a 97 ranger w/ auto hubs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
Did you fully seat the bearing race on the inside bearing?
On the torque, I flat out ignore the Ford service method and instead tighten the nut to maybe 15 ft-lbs and rotate the rotar in each direction several times. I repeat this until applying additional torque results in no additional nut tightening. Rotation of the rotor will be "snug", but not overly tight. It will loosen a tad after you dirve it a bit. The idea is to remove any play in the bearing and have just a bit of preload on the nut/spindle.
On the torque, I flat out ignore the Ford service method and instead tighten the nut to maybe 15 ft-lbs and rotate the rotar in each direction several times. I repeat this until applying additional torque results in no additional nut tightening. Rotation of the rotor will be "snug", but not overly tight. It will loosen a tad after you dirve it a bit. The idea is to remove any play in the bearing and have just a bit of preload on the nut/spindle.
