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I finally got the Check Engine Light to go out in my 90 F-150 300-6. Fixing three vacuum lines and a new EVP Sensor did that (also cleared the 44 and 32 error codes). But now, after the truck is warmed a bit, driving between 1400 & 1900 RPM's is impossible. The truck misses and surges like mad. But after I pulled the vacuum line off of the EGR Valve, the truck runs fine! I put a pump up to the EGR and it holds 25" of vacuum. I told this to the Service Tech at Ford, who of course said that removing the vacuum line should make the truck run worse. They're all baffled and confused after i showed them. They want to hook up an OnBoard Computer and take it for a drive, but I can't miss a day of work so they can experiment. Anyways, the Check Engine Light has not come on and the truck runs fine without the EGR hooked up.
My opinion is you let the Ford techs hook your truck up & let them drive it . If the truck does for them what it does for you then they can isolate the problem & repair it or at least tell you so you can make the repairs . Most dealers have a service that deliver people to their jobs . Thats if you dont need your truck for work . From what you have described it sounds as if the Egr Vacuum Regulator is the problem ? Its hard to say for sure w/o actually working on the truck , But thats my best guess with the info you posted .
That's what I was thinking. It is only $23 and Hopefully that will fix the problem. I was just curios if anyone else had a similar problem. It doesn't sound like a valve problem but who knows! I'll post back and tell how or if it worked.
Did you clean the EGR valve when you replaced the sensor? If you didn't, it sounds like it is sticking open. Make sure the seat is clean if it is dirty it will prevent the valve from closing completely.
Ok, so how do I go about cleaning the EGR Valve? I picked up a EVC today so I'll put it in first and see how it goes. But I do want to know how to clean it in case the controller exchange doesn't work.
All the EGR does is allow exhaust gases into the intake charge to reduce the combustion chamber temperature and reduce NOX emissions. In the process it increases CO and HC emissions. Not too many states fail you for high NOX (unless you're diesel) but they will fail you for high HC and CO.
In my opinion, the EGR valve should be banned. NOX is almost instantly transformed to N2 and O2 when UV light hits it, so unless you drive only at night, it doesn't hurt too much. HC and CO is much worse.
To block it off, remove it, take out the gasket that goes to the intake and replace it with a metal plate. Then reinstall the valve with all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors. The computer will think its still working, but the engine won't get all that exhaust pumped into the intake. You will also get a smoother idle and slightly better gas mileage.
DISCLAIMER: It is against federal law to disable any anti-pollution devices in your vehicle no matter where you live.
I like that Non-EPA answer. So before I spend $140 on a new valve (if that's what the problem is), I'll more than likely end up bypassing the EGR. Hell if it runs fine with the stupid EGR Vacuum line unhooked, taking it out of the equation completely won't hurt nothing either. Thanks!
And just like you, I obey All the laws..... almost
Well, With the new EVR in place, the truck still has it's little stumble. So after replacing the EVP and the EVR (for a total of $48) the truck still does not like to have the vacuum line hooked up to the EGR. So, as long as the Check Engine light does not come on (hasn't since replacing the EVP) I'll run it without the EGR. I probably just need a new EGR.. but it'll have to wait till after christmas.
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