High revs when changing gears
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: sc montana
High revs when changing gears
When shifting gears the rpms go up to 3000 or so and stays for a few seconds then slowly fall back to normal. This condition makes it hard to make a smooth shift. I'm not getting any codes. I can eliminate the problem by ... shutting off the key and restarting the engine after the truck runs for a couple minutes. It will work fine until the next time it cools for a couple hours. Any Ideas whats wrong here?
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: North Vancouver, Canada
I have that exact same problem with my manual F-250 and one person I mentioned that I could just switch tanks because the system was sucking in air and making the fuel lean. I found that it is kind of a temporary solution and if anyone has a way to solve this problem permanently that would be great.
If I knew what the TPS was it might help too, lol.
God bless,
Scott.
If I knew what the TPS was it might help too, lol.
God bless,
Scott.
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Posting Guru
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
It's the Throttle Position Sensor. If not operating correctly it can cause this issue. It is located on the off side (non linkage side of the throttle rod) on the throttle body.
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From: sc montana
question
if it is the TPI, why would it flare when I start it from cold and drive it, but not do it when i start it from cold .... run 1 minute, then shut off and restart it and it won't flare until the next cold start?
Posting Guru
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
Check the TPS voltage and see if it fluctuates. If it is on the way out, it can operate erratically. It should have a voltage range between 0.66 and 1.22. This is a K.O.E.O. test. The TP Circuit signal operating voltage range (K.O.E.O.) is a minimum of 0.34 to 4.84. I am not certain that this is the culprit, Skidly, I'm just trying to eliminate this as a possibility.
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I struggled with mine for years trying to get the idle to act right. Basically everything mentioned here and then some.
Eventually I converted to MAF and it runs like a champ now. Idle is always where it should be. Shifting is a breeze with my 4-speed manual granny tranny. Throttle response where there was none before and no more hesitation or stumbling. The lifters even stopped clattering. The conversion is a bit on the expensive side though.
My only complaints are that when I start it on cold mornings the idle immediately drops to the normal 700-800 rpm and now it takes 15 minutes to warm up. Also my mileage has gone down a little but I think it has more to do with the fact that I can drive it now instead of just nursing it along.
Not saying this is the best or only way. Just that it was for me. You're problems may be simpler than whatever was wrong with mine.
Eventually I converted to MAF and it runs like a champ now. Idle is always where it should be. Shifting is a breeze with my 4-speed manual granny tranny. Throttle response where there was none before and no more hesitation or stumbling. The lifters even stopped clattering. The conversion is a bit on the expensive side though.
My only complaints are that when I start it on cold mornings the idle immediately drops to the normal 700-800 rpm and now it takes 15 minutes to warm up. Also my mileage has gone down a little but I think it has more to do with the fact that I can drive it now instead of just nursing it along.
Not saying this is the best or only way. Just that it was for me. You're problems may be simpler than whatever was wrong with mine.
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From: sc montana
runs great just inconvenient
I appreciate the help here. I will retest the TPS. Its just that it is running smooth with lots of power, and best mileage ever. Only problem is when I start it cold it will do it. Shut it off after a minute and restart and I don't have any problems until the next cold start. Seems like this on - off - on cycle is doing something to make it run richer, could it be my ECT or ACT sensors doing this?
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