Black Death is the term given to what happens when one of our FS10 type AC Compressors suffer catrosphic failure.

So-called because the compressor overheats, silicone seals within the AC Compressor melt, and become distributed throughout the system.

The compressor itself locks up, and the engine will not turn over, because the belt will not turn.

Not only does the compressor need to be replaced, but at the minimum so does the Accumulator/Drier, the orifice tube, and the high pressure line.

The condensor can also become contaminated necessitating replacement.

If one chooses not to replace the condensor, and it is infected it can recontaminate the system.

Also the vehicle will not run because the compressor pulley will not turn, which means the vehicle must be towed or the repairs done at home.

Needless, to say it is an expensive kick in the Edited

 

The compressor pulley is controlled by an electric clutch. In the event that the compressor locks up, the belt can still turn the outer part of the pulley if the A/C and defrost are turned off, or yo can unplug the connector going to the clutch.
It is possible to have a clutch fail and prevent the A/C compressor from turning off. It is also possible to have an internal failure of the compressor. IMO it is very unlikely that both would fail at the same time.
Is this something that someone else diagnosed on your truck? If so I would be skeptical of the diagnosis that both failure happened at once.
Replacing the components you mentioned ( compressor, accumulator, and orifice) would be the only way guarantee that the parts are clean. Most compressor warranties are voided if you don't also replace the accumulator and orifice. The HP line and the condenser can be flushed with fluids made specifically for flushing A/C systems. Any professional A/C shop should have this stuff.
I have worked on a few A/C systems and I have seen crud get in the systems. The worst contamination I have seen is from the stop-leak products that get put in the system.
Good luck with the "black death", I hope you can turn it in to "white frost".

 

Thanks for your reply Bodabdan.

As I was pulling away from the house, after changing the serpentine belt with neither the AC nor the Defroster running--my wife looking out the window of the house saw a puff of black smoke from the engine area. I did not notice it, but when I returned and opened the hood there was black soot in the vicinity of the compressor, and the pulley would not budge.

The face of the clutch can be turned, so apparently the clutch is not engaged, but the pulley itself won't budge using any amount of force. Which led me to the belief that it was a catastrophic compressor failure.

Upon researching it I self-diagnosed the Black Death from the link.

http://www.aircondition.com/dsmobileac/blackdeath.html

 

It sounds like only the bearing failed. If the clutch part rotates it
should mean that the compressor is fine just the bearing that the pulley runs on that has failed.

 

I second that. Just replace the pulley and you're back on the road. Get another belt, too. Your new one is now toast.

 

Thanks for the info. guys! I'm getting happy!

Now can someone tell me how to remove the pulley?

 

there is a special tool you should use. Depending on the price of a clutch, it may only cost a little more to replace the entire compressor. There is a wide array of pricing on these things.
If you do this though you will definitely need to evacuate and recharge the system, so don't forget to figure in the cost of this when you make your decision. Also you won't get a warranty on the new compressor if you don't change the accumulator and orifice.
Many parts stores now have a "loan a tool" program. That may be the place to find a clutch removal tool to use. If you buy one you won't use it often I paid over $500 for a basic set from Snap-On and there are still some clutches that it doesn't fit.

 

Can anyone direct me to a vendor for a shorter belt that will bypass the locked A/C Compressor Pulley?

Or perhaps provide a part# that I can take to Napa.

I have done several internet searches to no avail.

Once I get the repair parts I will still need to get it to a shop, to have the system evacuated, and the truck will not even start with the correct belt installed.

Thanks Art

 

use a piece of string and route it how the new belt would go. Then measure it and that will get you close to the length that you will need. You will need to ask for a belt by the length, not the application. Just make sure that it has the right amount of ribs/grooves. This works better with a small time parts store than it does with the national chains.

 

I'm a little surprised that there is not a specific belt to bypass the AC compressor. Seems like it would be a popular way to save on fuel costs, especially in the winter months, and when diesel prices move as high as they have.

 

The AC is used the extract moisture from the air before it is heated and blown against the windshield for defrost. It makes the defrost feature work 10x faster than just waiting for the heater to heat the window enough to clear it.