I replaced the lower ball joints in my '97. I bought a ball joint press from Eastwood, and it worked like a charm. Something to consider if you don't have access to an auto parts store that loans the presses out. I wish I would have had your instructions when I did mine back when, those would have been hugely helpful!

 

Man, this is great information! I'm about to tacke this project myself, but have one question. I heard from somebody that the new lower ball joint has to be oriented a certain way. They made it sound like one side has a mark that must point inward (towards the engine) when you press it in. Is that true?

 

On some greaseable ball joint boots there is a little hole thingy for the excess grease to come out of. If it has that then you aim the hole away from the brake rotor but other than that it doesn't matter.

 

Racerguy,

Turns out I have to give a nod to Ford... the dealer called yesterday to say they'd like to replace the lower ball joints on my truck where Ford pays 60%, the dealer pays 20% and I pay 20%. He says he'll add the front end alignment as well. I'm going to take him up on the offer since I think it's more than fair given that I'm over the 12 month warranty by 4 months. By the way, I left bad info in an earlier response to you while typing and erasing- the road I live on is paved- it's just pot hole city; I meant to say it isn't plowed regularly!

However, the jury's out in my mind as to if the lowers are the only thing bad... either I got that one in a million bad set of ball joints, the guy did a lousy job on the last replaement 8000 miles ago, or other parts are in need of replacement causing the domino effect... I've seen verticle play on my driver side outer tire rod (about 1/4") and the service guy at Ford says everything except for the lower ball joints are within spec... not convinced he even checked anything besides the lowers though.

Thanks for this web thread though, it's incredible.

v/r,
Steve

 

Yesterday I had the front brakes done on my son's 97 F150XLT 2X4. This was formerly my truck and I had babied it. I wasreplacing the shocks on the the front when I noticed that the pads were getting really low, and since I did not have the time to do a brake job before I left town I took it to a local national chain. They inspected the brakes and other areas and came back and told me that the upper and lower ball joints needed to be replaced on both sides. Now this is probably true since the vehicle has 161k on it and they have never been replaced before. The quote that I got from them to replace them was $861.

I had read the thread here previously with just a little curiousity. not with any in depth retention, and new that the ball joints could be replaced. However, I got my Haynes manual out and it says that the ball joints cannot be replaced, am both arms would have to be replaced as a unit. Someone please tel me that this is not the case, and I just have an old manual. I plan on tackling this job myself when I return, and hope that it is just the ball joints and not the complete arms.

Thanks in advance.

 

The uppers come already installed in the armature. The lowers can be replaced. I just did mine. A little time consuming, but not beyond the average ability (as I proved). Get the loaner ball joint press and the pickle fork. They're free upon return, and worth the time. GET GREASABLE REPLACEMENTS! Good luck!

Qdude

PS- Inspect your brake pistons. Mine were cracking, causing uneven wear. Replaced both and bled entire system while under there. Another easy fix since I was that deep into the front end. Changed my braking ability DRAMATICALLY. Just in time for towing a boat and a 5th! Most valuable aspect of the project, to me, though the joints made a huge difference in the tightness and ride of the truck (they were that far gone).

 

The moog instructions for replacing the lowers indicate pulling pulling the axle assy off by removing the six bolts at the housing and taking the axle completely off of the vehicle. Does this matter at all ??

 

Nope. You have to remove the spindle/hub assembly, but the axle stays. Zip tie it up out of your way.

 

As I had suspected -- Thanks much!!!!

 

I replace the two lower ball joints on the 2k expedition saturday morning. It wasn't a real tough job - just time consuming. I might add a recommendation though. After everthing is lossened up stay clear of the strike zone. When trying to pull the hub, it would not come off at first then it did all at once and right onto my shins. Secondly, after going through all that work, you would hate to break the hub.

While I had it apart I decided to also replace the rotors and installed loaded calipers. After all that work after my wife helped bleed brakes, and then proceded to back it to my other truck sideswiping the both of them. I am now looking for a new or good used 2K Expedition/F150 bumper along with some good woman driver jokes.

Just lovin life now!!!!

 

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum, but with the instructions posted in the beginning, the job was pretty straightforward. The only question I have for Racerguy or whomever is, when I replaced my ball joints with new moog ones, and I also replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends with sleeves, how much grease did you put into the ball joints and tie rods when new? Thanks. I know they come kinda pregreased, but thought that I probably should add more since the boots really don't have any in them at the beginning?

BigDan

 

My rule of thumb is to watch the boot while it expands, and let even a little leak out around the edge - yeah, I know, someone will take issue that it's a conduit for dirt, except the next grease job does clean it out. Grease 'em every time you change the oil (I did mine once between, ~1000 miles the first time, just to make sure they were full) - you might need 45 degree fittings to make it easier.
Dave

 

I have always filled the boot until it starts to come out, turn the wheel back and forth to exercise the new part and get rid of any air pockets, then give it one more pump. If it is not a new part I don't normally turn the wheel

 

Welcome to the forum BigDan

 

Thanks guys. I really don't want to fill them until it comes out...makes a mess of everything I just cleaned up and replaced. On the bottom ball joint the boot comes preassembled on the joint...so if it comes out of it, then I'm in trouble cause it would have to bust the boot to come out of it. Isn't it a waste of grease to fill the boots too full...since the grease is actually really needed inside the head part of the tie rod and ball joints? Basically the boots just keep dirt from entering the head part anyways and just covers the shaft portion which is just tapered to fit tight in the hole of the other component. Thanks for the info though. I also replaced seals in hub/knuckles and also wheel bearings as well...so the whole front of the truck is new except for the cv joints. After I did all that work, I found a pretty neat solid axle conversion from fabritech that I might do later on...has anybody done this?

BigDan