I'm mostly running on memory so please forgive me if I miss someting. If you disconnect the two halves of C110 the four corner pins (or spaces for pins) are 1, 9, 34 and 42. Pin 1 is Brakes, pin 9 is battery and pin 34 is reverse. These numbers should be labeled on the housing or orange rubber insulation. You need enough 12 gauge stranded wire to reach the rear bumper of the van in three different colors. I forget the color code but I followed the standard for trailer wires. I just ran the wires along the frame rail and tie wrapped them into place. A smarter way to do it would be to put all three wires into plastic wire loom first then run the wires to the back. Go ahead and run all the wires first. Next, disassemble the male half of C110 so you can access the rear of the connector where the wires come in. Strip each of the 3 wires about 1/4" and tin them with solder. In case you don't know, that means coat the wire with solder. The solder should actually flow into the wire strands and hold them together. Be careful not to overdo it. The tinned wire should be the same diameter as the untinned wire only much stiffer. This tinned portion of the wire will take the place of the actual pins Ford uses. In the rubber insulator there are 2 (?) red plastic inserts that lock the pins into place, remove these with a pair of needle nose pliers. Do not lose or break these, they will be needed later. Somewhere in a black plastic cover you need to punch out the blanks where these wires are supposed to pass through, I forget exactly where this is. Feed each of the tinned wires through the housing and insulation so that each wire is about the same height as the existing pins. Be careful not to displace any existing pins while doing this. Reinstall the locking inserts and reassemble the connector. If you positioned the wires correctly they will act as the male part of the connector and fit perfectly into the female part of the connector. After that all you need to do is connect the sevne pin connnector at the rear. Don't forget to install a 12 gauge ground wire too. Hope this is enough information for you to get the job done.

 

I found the brown plug today, that is awesome. Now I just need to run a blue and orange wire to the rear and we'll be set. I hope I am not missing anything! I was thinking (for the blue wire) it may be easier to just run a new blue from the output of the brake controller to the rear bumper and tape up the Ford wire. By the way, do I need the orange / battery wire ? The only trailers I haul are car haulers etc.

 

I don't know if running the wire hte way described would be easier or not. I'm sure it won't hurt to try. Did you check your fuse/relay box for all the right fuses and relays?nnAs far as the battery wire goes, I hooked mine up just in case I ever needed it. If you use a car hauler with battery pwered emergency braking this wire may keep the battery charged. Different trailers are wired different ways so this may not be of value to you. It was no problem for me to run both since I put both wires in 20' of split flex before I ran them.

 

I am also going to bring back the reverse lights also, they are handy on utility trailer

 

I just bought 2 sections of wire and the split loom. I can grab the backup lights from the tail-light area. There is no point in running only one wire, so I will do both from the bumper forward and see if I have the pin connections you describe on that 110 plug. Where can I get a shop manual for the 2006, I assume only at the dealership. I would like to verify the pin connections and get this done! Wow, was this a learning experience.

 

I bought my manuals on ebay. The electrical manual is seperate and is very hard to understand even with 21 years experience in electronics. Once I figured out Ford's system I could follow it but there are better ways.

 

I ran the loom this morning from the bumper to the front. I had to stop and use the van so I wrapped the extra in a loop and tied it to the frame. What I did realize, I hope, is that the C110 connector you describe is down bolted to the frame between the exhaust downpipe and the frame. I thought for some reason it was up on the firewall. Please verify my assumption. It is about 2" x 2" and has a bolt holding the two halfs together and then a steel bracket bolting it to the frame. If that is it, indeed, I will look for the pin connections you describe and connect the brake and battery down there. Are the pin locations identified on the plug or do I just look for the one half having an blue and orange where the other half does not and make my connections?

 

That sounds like the right connector. The pins should be numbered in the orange rubber or on the black plastic housing, I don't remember which. The wires probably won't be the same colors you are using and the pins won't be installed in the rear half. The pin locations will be in the corners. I almost totally disasembled the male half of the connector to install the new wires see my directions at the top of this post for clarification on how to do that.

 

Silly question, maybe instead of disassembling the plug assembly I can find a tap into the wires on the half that they do exist? I was afraid you would say the colors did not match.

 

You can try it but the connector part isn't hard. The whole job from start to finish, including running the wires took me 1 to 2 hours total.

 

I'll take it apart and look. The van only has 100 miles on it and never been in the rain. Everything is clean and new, this is the time to do it if I am. Thanks for all of your help!! I'll post when I am done!

 

92GT5ohRed,

How'd it go? Any update?

 

Ya know, I was going to post on Friday when I did the wiring but I had a snag and hoped to work through it before I gave my summary. I am sorry to let you hang

Anyhow, the C110 came apart exactly as you described, and with the dust cover off the pin numbers were also exactly as you described. I ran the wires and cut to length, tinned them, then inserted them before assembling the halves so I could see how long they needed to be, and I put tape on the outside so i could be assured they were re-inserted fully when the bolt was tight. ( was proud of myself for thinking of that part)

All went well, re-assembled the C110, taped the wires together nicely and securely, put the dust cap on. I then went to the bumper and tested the pins. Everything is perfect except the battery (orange) feed, zilch, dead.

Today I trailered my deere tractor ... the brakes and all lights are perfect !!!!! I don't need the battery feed on my car hauler, so it was not a big deal.... but my ****-retentive nature now makes me lose sleep trying to determine why that darn + wire is not hot. I had a wild day today and could not get back under there to check for power and continuity with my fluke meter, basically on both sides of the plug - but that will be next.

So far, I am excited and totally thankful for your post and detailed description of the pin connections - that was "it" for sure. BTW, I did make a quick visual check of the fuse box, under the dash by the emergency brake area - all fuses are installed, and all blanks are shown as "not used" just like the owners manual says. So that is not it. I know the wire is inserted all the way.

Any suggestions, or should I just try for continuity and power from the factory side of the orange + wire and see if it was my wiring job. Are there any other fuses under the hood or anywhere that could cause it to be dead? It is odd that the blue trailer wire works perfect but the orange does not. I suspect my wiring is not the culprit.

 

Glad it (mostly) worked out for you and I was more than happy to help out. Here's a few ideas on the battery power. I read on a towing forum that the battery line on Fords is only hot when the engine is running. Since you don't say if the engine was running I bring it up . The battery relay could be bad from the factory. I 've seen this before ! Double check all fuses are good. I thnk my first test would be to seperate the two halves of C110 and confirm the front half of pin 9 is hot with the engine running to eliminate your wire. There's a small chance the tinned wire didn't make contact when you reassembled the connector. Good luck.

 

On my 2005 van, the B+ to trailer is not hot unless the motor is running; good thing too, otherwise the trailer could suck the life out of the vehicle battery. There was a relay in the box w/ the brake controller pigtail that I presume accomplishes the task...I had to install it myself. I think the relay had the same part number as others in the electrical box...if so, might try a swap.