My ol' trucks light switch decided that it would start going bad on my trip back to school this weekend. Has anybody replaced theirs, and was it a big job? It looks as if I might need to remove the entire "face" of the dash. Could anybody maybe give me some insight on this project? Thanks!


93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!

 

You do have to remove the whole panel bezel (big black one). To replace the light switch, first disconnect the battery (you have to turn on the lights to remove the ****). Then pull on headlight **** out, and rotate it until you can see the slot in the ****. Use an awl or a small slotted screwdriver (1/8") in the slot to pull the spring steel retainer toward you to disengage the ****, while pulling it off the shaft. If it's a column shift, you'll want to put it in low so the shifter will be out of the way, and if it's got a tilt column, tilt it down as far as you can for clearance. There's two horizontal trim pieces on the bezel on either side of the column (they're silver on XLTs), and there are screws behind each (hex-head with Torx slots, if I remember correctly). On the underside of the trim pieces there are slots so you can pry them off with a screwdriver. Pry these off carefully. Then remove the screws. Then, starting at the bottom, pull the bezel away from the panel. It uses three felt-covered (to prevent rattles) clips across the top. If you've got dual tanks like I do, you'll have to wiggle the connector off of the tank selector switch. Also be care removing the bezel, so you don't scratch the column. Once you've the bezel off, there's two screws that hold the headlamp switch in place. Remove these and pull off the connector.

When you're putting it back together, be careful slipping the bezel around the column (again), making sure the rubber filler between the bezel and the column is positioned correctly. Also, don't overtighten the screws behind the trim pieces. On mine, the plastic was broken out around one of the screws already, so I had to use a backing behind the mounting, fill with JB Kwik-Weld, and drill a new hole (worked great). After you reconnect the battery, start it up and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching the gas pedal, so the PCM (computer) can relearn the idle program. After that, it'll take 10 miles or so of driving for it to relearn your driving style.

This is all from memory (I replaced all my cluster bulbs after a couple of them burned out last year). I'll look at my Ford manual tonight, and if I missed any steps, I'll post a followup.

Good luck,
Steve

 

> You do have to remove the whole panel.......This is all from memory.......if I missed any steps, I'll post a followup.
Good luck,
Steve


WOW! Steve, you should work for Chiltons. That was the best walk through of a repair I have ever read. I did this operation on a '92 some time ago, and as I read your post, I kept saying "yeah, that's right", and "oh yeah, I forgot about that". Good memory, Dude. If only the repair manual could be so concise............

 

Wow!!! I agree with cable guy!!! That is a great description!!! Althought I am now not looking forward to this job. Oh well, it has to be done............eventually. For now I will just pull the switch gently, untill I have an afternoon free. Thank you for the help!!!!

93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!

 

Oh, there are a couple more steps. The are *five* clips that hold the bezel on. The three across the top (the curved part), and one each on the sides, I think near the A/C vents. Also, there's an access hole on the headlamp switch somewhere, and you insert a punch (I guess a small drill bit would do) to disengage the headlamp **** shaft (minus the **** which was removed earlier). There's also a mounting nut on the switch, around the hole where the shaft goes through. You unscrew the nut and remove the switch, then pull the connector. You could probably also remove the bracket (two screws) that holds the switch to the panel. FYI, this is on page 17-01-51 of the 1995 Ford Body, Chassis Shop Manual. I've spent around $300 on manuals, but it's been worth it.

Steve