I am changing transmissions in my 82 F-250 & have 3 transfer cases to choose from. All used but good working units. I want to choose the best unit for my application. I have a 1982 Borg Warner 1345, 1988 Borg Warner 1356, & a 1979 New Process 205. Before you guys pick the NP 205 consider that to use the 205 my front drive shaft will not be straight. Is it ok to have a drive shaft angled on both the X & Y axis? I’ve been told that I will need a CV joint to do this, but is this going to cause a problem. I do leave my hubs locked in most of the time so that front drive shaft is spinning most of the time.

 

Why will your drive shaft not be straight? What transmission are you changing to? What style driving are you going to be doing with this truck? Why will the CV be a problem, I thought it was the solution? Why dot unlock your hubs(less wear and better gas mileage)? I would go with the 205 if it will work with minimal time and money. They are one tough case. And twinstickable.

 

Roger,

I agree that it mostly depends on the type of driving you will be doing. If you don't need the absolute bullet proof-ness (probably not a real word) of the 205, the chain drives are lighter and plenty strong. If you have your heart set on a 205, do it. I run a 205 on a 1980 with a T-18 with no angle problems. I would like to have a heavy duty CV driveshaft, but I don't yet and it's not killing me.

Like sprocket said, if you unlock your hubs, it'll help your milage and decrease wear on the driveline. Hope this helps.

Ernie

 

sprocket,

The NP 205 case does not extend as far out (toward the Left) as the BW. So the Front Yoke is several inches closer to the center of the truck. The BW's extend out so that it is a straight shot to the front Diff. Which is Currently a Dana 44 IFS. I am changing from a T18 to a C6 auto. I do not do any off roading, but I do some plowing, Stump pulling and other abuse, but in the 10+ years I've had the truck I have not yet destroyed my 1345.

Ernie,
You run a NP205 in a 1980 so that should be a direct comparison. What front Axel do you have? I assume that your front driveshaft angles left as well as down. No vibrations or excessive U-Joint wear? How long has this case been in your truck?

I try to unlock my hubs if I'm going a distance, but I only put about 4,000 miles a year on this truck. I also have not noticed any noticeable fuel mileage difference either way. It's horrible no mater what.

Weight is not a issue and I'm sure the BW cases would be strong enough for me, but I have both available and want to make the correct decision. Sometimes the strongest solutiont is not the best solution. One reason I'm so concerned about the choice is that I want to get a Gear vendors overdrive & you have to buy it for the transfer case you have. Once I buy the overdrive it's too late to make the change. Of course I need to find the money for over drive & that may take some time.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. This site is a great resource

 

Roger:

I changed my front axle from the standard 44 to a HP 60. You are correct that my driveshaft angles both down and to the left. When I first lifted my truck, I had some binding in the tcase yoke. I changed out the yoke because it was set up for tiny u-joints like a 134 or smething. Once I swapped the tcase yoke, I had no more problems with the binding. It's important to note that this problem didn't manifest itself until I put more than 4" of lift, so I'm sure you'll be fine. I don't have any driveline vibration at low speed in 4 wheel drive; but have never driven fast in 4 wheel. I don't think I have any problem with excessive wear, but I play in the mud a lot, so that's what kills my bearings and u-joints.

Back to your dilemna: Which tcase is the overdrive cheapest for? That may be more of a deciding factor for you than anything else. If you can save a couple hundred bucks on the OD for one of the cases, I think that's your best option. Considering what you do with your truck, any of the cases will probably last you a lifetime.

Good Luck,
Ernie

 

Ernie,

Same price for the 3 cases I have.

I'm stock hight and not ever planing on lifting it. As it is my wife has a hard enogh time getting in it now. It's pretty high stock and I added 33x12.5 BFG TA/KO's. If I went up more than a inch it would not fit in the garage any more so that's out.

I know that I should unlock the hubs, but often I don't especilly during the winter. My hubs are locked from first snow until spring. Right now with the hub's locked. Driving 85 Mph you would not even know they where locked. My only concern is, are there going to be any change in the way the truck behaves making the switch to the "good" transfer case. This old truck has enough querks, and I don't want to add any.

In summery, I really want to use the 205, but not if I have to change the way I drive it.
If this transfer case/angled drive shaft will not let me drive at high speeds with the hub's locked in or there is a signifigent amount of extra drag or noise in the gear driven transer case. I'll stick with the borg warner.

Thanks again