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Alright, I just bought this 1994 Sport 3.0L Aerostar 140,000 miles on the engine and trans ran awesome, really great, than the transmission modulator went bad.. After replacing the module the engine started wobbling at idle and low RPMs and ran alittle slower. It sounds like it's was missing and smells like gas is coming out of the tail pipe. So I checked the spark plugs, I found something interestingCylinder #6 spark plug looks really different compared to the rest! It looked really moist! So I changed all my plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, air filter, battery, PCM, TPS. Still acting up.... Any ideas
Might check the #6 injector, it may be stuck or sticking open and shooting fuel into the cylinder all the time. I would think that you should get a engine code though if it's running too rich.
Might check the #6 injector, it may be stuck or sticking open and shooting fuel into the cylinder all the time. I would think that you should get a engine code though if it's running too rich.
Ron
I think Ron is correct. Another idea, is the #6 injector might be leaking slightly when the engine is shut off. You'll have raw fuel in that cylinder, basically flooding the plug. This is not to say the injector is leaking badly, only "seeping" or letting minute amounts of gasoline past the injector. An O ring might be the reason, but it might be best to replace the injector all together. Also, if you do decide to replace an injector, replace the faulty one with the exact same kind. If it's original, then Motorcraft. I've heard from others, more often than not, replacing one injector with an aftermarket can cause annoying driveability issues. The van will run, but not 100% perfect. Basically, if you replace an injector with a Bosch or Napa part, replace all six with the same brand / type. Not 5 Motorcraft injectors, and one Car Quest injector, and vise-versa. Good luck...
If your modulator went bad, you must have been sucking tranny fluid up the vacuum line into the engine. That means all your vacuum lines might be shot. Replace them first.
Actron of coarse. Unless you want an extremely nice unit. The Actron is the top selling, and that is not because it is cheap, its because it is reliable.
A way to check for a stuck or leaking injector is with a fuel presure gauge. Attach it to the fuel rail and turn the key to "Run" (don't start), check pressure. It should go to 35-45 psi when pump charges fuel rail and hold when pump stops. If the pressure immediately drops to zero when the pump stops, then you may have a bad regulator. If the pressure slowly but steadly drops to zero, then you may have a stuck or leaking injector. If the pressure very slowly drops, that's normal.
First of all, I just wanted to give thanks to:rimdad, Ed, copper_90680! You guys are awesome, thanks for all your help and info, otherwise I would have given up and just dump the project. But I mean I love this Van, so therefore im not giving up!! So heres what I did. I went and bought a compression tester, and tested out all 5 of the cylinders and got around 120psi readings. When I got to cylinder #6 it was reading zero psi!?! and then it hit me INTERNAL DAMAGE!!!!
I started to rip apart the engine piece by piece. Finally, got to the heads and pulled them off, and thats when I found this!!!
<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/MikeyMike56/Heads.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
"Now, I don't know how I should feel about this, but im actually happy in a way, a very weird way"
This actually explains why I smell gas (exhaust valve chipped)
I inspected everything, everything looked great very clean inside
Hope that is all that is broken!?
So anyways I got the heads port/polished and replaced the valve, I put them back on the block. Now im kind of stuck on the part where, I torque the Head Bolts to the block?!?! How much torque do I give them?
[B][I]Now im kind of stuck on the part where, I torque the Head Bolts to the block?!?! How much torque do I give them?
Hi TrickStyle3L:
For the 3.0L you can reuse the Head Bolts once. Also, it's a good idea to put the intake manifold loosely before you torque the heads. Otherwise, it's really a pain to get all the bolts on the intake to line up properly after the heads are torqued down. If I'm not mistaken, the intake bolts are aluminum, so be very careful not to strip them.
Send me an E-mail so that I can get your E-mail address and I'll send you the torque sequence for both the heads and the intake manifold.
Gee! That's a pretty big chip out of that valve...definately would cause a problem...sorry it's such a pain, but at least you'll have it fixed...glad for any help I may have been.
I would be more worried about where the pieces went and what kind of damage it did to the piston and/or cylinder wall. Or if a small piece slid beside the piston and crack a ring.
There might be more damage than just the Valve. I would of dropped the oil pan and took the piston loose checked it for damage.