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So far, we haven't had luck with any "broken bolt remover" style tools getting the little buggers out, either.
The best thing that I have found so far is this- take the left hand threaded bolt off of a turnbuckle (needs to be half inch or bigger) with the matching left hand flat-bottomed tap- drill out the needed hole in the plug, bottom it out just a tad past where the original hole was (dont go too far, its an incredibly deep hole) and tap it. (BTW, try to use as course a thread as possible) and feed it in. About 75% of the time, you can take a screwdriver and tighten the LH-thread turnbuckle, and the plug will come right out with it. The other 25% of the time you will end up in worse shape than you started with But sometimes its worth a shot.
These things work wonders: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=des#tablinkI haven't had a need to try them on my HFCM plug yet, but I have used them on some really nasty broken studs and bolts and they beat anything else I ever used.
I haven't had a need to try them on my HFCM plug yet, but I have used them on some really nasty broken studs and bolts and they beat anything else I ever used.
I agree, those things work great- and the harder the metal the better they work. The problem is (we tried a set) that the actual extractor part just simply won't grab ahold of the old style soft brass plugs- if you stripped one of the steel ones, I'm sure it would work wonders, but you need actual threads to hold in the brass
Here is my question... since the thing is all rounded out and I can't get it off and dealer can't take it for a week and a half, can I drive it without draining it?
I am starting to hate this thing as it sits in my driveway. So please tell me I can drive it!
Off the subject, but nice pictures on your webshots page. May I ask what was leaking on the engine to fill up the oil cooler cavity with coolant like that?
The photo is showing the oil cavity that the oil cooler heat exchanger sits in. What you think is coolant is actually engine oil that looks green because I had installed UV dye in it. And remember, the 6.0 uses gold coolant.
The photo is showing the oil cavity that the oil cooler heat exchanger sits in. What you think is coolant is actually engine oil that looks green because I had installed UV dye in it. And remember, the 6.0 uses gold coolant.
DUH I wasn't thinking gold coolant....
Brain fart
Was it an EOT or EOP o-ring or the seal sealing the bottom of the oil cooler to the top cover?
The oil cooler assembly is the cover. If you rolled through the other pictures theres one with an arrow pointing to the crack in the block that was allowing oil to pass under the oil cooler gasket.
The oil cooler assembly is the cover. If you rolled through the other pictures theres one with an arrow pointing to the crack in the block that was allowing oil to pass under the oil cooler gasket.
I was referring to the very top part of the oil cooler, but I see what you are saying now....
According to the official diesel engine warranty parts coverage guide, the fuel water separator bowl, base part number "9A343" is not listed and therefore not covered past the vehicle base warranty of 3/36 as far as I can determine. I could be wrong. I will clarify this with my warranty administrator on Monday.
I was correct. If you strip that plug, for what ever reason, the fuel manifold cover on the HFCM will have to be replaced and it is not covered under the 5/100 diesel engine warranty, only the 3/36 vehicle warranty.
I also tried an easyout type remover. Broke the darn tool!
I was correct. If you strip that plug, for what ever reason, the fuel manifold cover on the HFCM will have to be replaced and it is not covered under the 5/100 diesel engine warranty, only the 3/36 vehicle warranty.
Man, you better believe I'd argue that one all the way up the food chain. What does "fuel system is covered" under the 5/100 warranty include, exactly, if it doesn't include major parts of the fuel system?! (Other than the explicit exclusions of the tank and lines, of course.) Not to mention that the design is *flawed* and has been *corrected* and it's pure luck whether it bites you before 36K or not. I can understand why Ford wouldn't issue an official customer satisfaction program on it, but I can't understand why they'd duck their responsibilities to fix a badly designed part, under a warranty that (at least according to the English language) explicitly includes it.
What happens if you look up the part number for the complete HFCM in your magic parts-covered-by-part-number book?
Why doesn't anyone read the warranty before making statements like that...
What happens if you look up the part number for the complete HFCM in your magic parts-covered-by-part-number book?
Duncan
Is that any way to treat someone with many years experience as a diesel technician with a Ford dealer freely offering honest advice and direct information that could of value to someone? I would be ashamed to make a condescending post like those to anyone, new member or senior member! Yep! Makes me feel real welcome.
Last edited by Ford_Doctor; Apr 18, 2005 at 09:50 PM.
Is that any way to treat someone with many years experience as a diesel technician with a Ford dealer freely offering honest advice and direct information that could of value to someone? I would be ashamed to make a condescending post like those to anyone, new member or senior member! Yep! Makes me feel real welcome.
I apologize profusely, I didn't know your history. But it just drives me insane to see all the posts that say "this part is not covered by the 5/100K warranty because it doesn't touch oil" or "that axle should be covered under the 5/100K drivetrain warranty." READ YOUR MANUAL PEOPLE!!! One comes wih every truck! (That's all those other people, not you.)
I still say your statement that the HFCM isn't covered is wrong though. Either wrong because it's wrong, or "wrong" that Ford actually doesn't cover it even though the warranty very clearly says it is covered (wthout naming it by name.)
And (to Tim) the drain plug was defective because (big duh!!!) it was made of brass and of course the hex hole stripped out the second or third time someone tried to open it, no matter how careful they were, on pretty much every truck made. The steel ones don't have that problem.
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