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e4od blues

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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #1  
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whistling69deuce
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e4od blues

I have a 91 Ford F150 4x2 ext. cab. long bed. 5.8 with e4od tranny. on the way to work on monday i was crusiing for about 20 miles at 50 then slowed down to a stop twice for stop signs. no problems yet. i slowed again to make a left turn into the gas station and had to stop again. when the opposing car passed i hit the gas to go and nothing happened. i shifted the tranny into first and it took off like it was supposed to. after fueling i tried d postion again and nothing was happening. i can shift manually from first to second with out any problems. when i shift into drive it skips third and goes into overdrive only if you are goin fast enough to need that gear. the fluid is only about 4500 miles old as is the filter. a month or so ago when scanning the computer for codes i got a coast clutch solenoid in a koeo test. anyone have any idea if these problems are related. or what to check first to remedey the problem. thanks in advance.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 10:28 AM
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does anyone know what these things cost to rebuild?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 12:23 PM
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First thing to do is to adjust the shift linkage and then the MLPS position. While you are under the truck doing that, take a look at the condition of the MLPS and the wiring running down to the trans. If it is muddy or chafed, that may be your problem.

Once this is done, try clearing codes and then collecting KOEO codes again. If the CCS code keeps coming back, there is a problem with the solenoid pack or the wiring. These are not too expensive to track down and fix.

Actual mechanical wear or damage in the trans components is another matter. The E4OD costs about $2000 to rebuild. At this point, the problem is most likely a relatively inexpensive control issue, and not a dead trans.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 12:29 PM
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what is and where is the mlps and how do you go about adjusting that? i think the linkage is fine since reverse park 1 and 2 are fine and overdrive is there if you are goin fast enough for it to engage. how exactly do you get the ccs out of the tranny anyway. thru the pan i imagine but is it the block of stuff in the center or something else? thanks.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 02:52 PM
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The MLPS is on the driver's side of the trans, about halfway back. There is a picture of it in my gallery. The procedure for adjusting it is in the Haynes manual. It calls for a special tool, but I found you can just eyeball the "notch" -- center it over the trans shift shaft. Again, look at my gallery -- there is a picture of the MLPS with the notch lined up.

I recommend you adjust the linkage, even if you think everything is fine. There are three things that need to line up -- the detents in the column, the position and detents of the trans shift shaft, and the MLPS. If the MLPS gets out of sync with the trans shaft, or the column detent is stopping the shifter halfway in between gears, then the computer or trans can get confused about what gear you want. The linkage is very easy to adjust. You have to adjust the linkage first, before adjusting the MLPS. The last time I fiddled with this, I was surprised how far off the lever was, even though the shifting was OK in my case.

The solenoid pack can be dropped from the trans once the pan is off. It can be changed out with the trans in the truck. Make sure the CCS error isn't just an obvious broken wire or corroded connector in the wiring going down to the trans before you pull off the trans pan.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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is the procedure for adjusting the linkage in the manual too?? i know that the little orange gear selector thingy on the dash is just a little off but has been like that since i got the truck and it passed md inspection. would a linkage adjustment fix the alignment problem???
 
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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The prodedure is in the manual. Basically, block the wheels and jack up the front of the truck. Loosen the bolt in the linkage that goes in the slotted hole, near the base of the firewall. Put the column shifter into "drive". Hold a little pressure (1-2 lbs) against the shifter into the drive detent on the column-- get a helper or hang a weight from the shift arm.

Go to the tranny shift arm on the side of the trans. Push it all the way back. Now move it forward two clicks. Tighten the bolt in the slotted linkage. Try the linkage in all the different positions. You are done.

Once the linkage is adjusted, put the trans in "park". Adjust the MLPS so the "notch" is directly above the center of the shift rod, when sighting parallel to the two flats. See my gallery for a picture of this.

The state safety inspections will catch broken lights, cracked windshields, grossly dis-functional brakes, and little else. Those inspections are a peculiar anomaly to the East Coast -- you don't see them in the rest of the country. I am dubious as to their actual value.
 
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