Realistic Power Expectations?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Realistic Power Expectations?
I am thinking about a 300 for a street rod. Mostly just to be different and because the 300 looks old skool.
I want to buy 5 spd manual shift F150 and just add a few things to boost it's apperance and performance a little bit. It'd go in a light weight (less than 2500 lbs) car. I'd keep the stick tranny too.
Mods I am thinking are listed below...
Port & Polish Head
Clean Up Combustion Chamber & Unshroud Valves, add 1.94"/1.60" Valves
Clifford Dual Carb Intake with 2 500 cfm 2 barrels or 2 390 4 barrels
Custom Lakes Racer Style Exhaust Manifold/System
Comp Cams 268H Camshaft
One crazy idea I had was a Clifford down draught intake with 6 Stromberg 97 carbs. Wild looking for sure, but making it run right would be troublesome I fear.
Of course, it have an appropriate ignition and a chromed "Power by Ford" valve cover with 2 small chrome air clearners.
All out power is not that importent, but it must still scoot down the road pretty good. 200+ hp at the wheels and plenty of torque would make the car plenty quick for a driver.
I want to buy 5 spd manual shift F150 and just add a few things to boost it's apperance and performance a little bit. It'd go in a light weight (less than 2500 lbs) car. I'd keep the stick tranny too.
Mods I am thinking are listed below...
Port & Polish Head
Clean Up Combustion Chamber & Unshroud Valves, add 1.94"/1.60" Valves
Clifford Dual Carb Intake with 2 500 cfm 2 barrels or 2 390 4 barrels
Custom Lakes Racer Style Exhaust Manifold/System
Comp Cams 268H Camshaft
One crazy idea I had was a Clifford down draught intake with 6 Stromberg 97 carbs. Wild looking for sure, but making it run right would be troublesome I fear.
Of course, it have an appropriate ignition and a chromed "Power by Ford" valve cover with 2 small chrome air clearners.
All out power is not that importent, but it must still scoot down the road pretty good. 200+ hp at the wheels and plenty of torque would make the car plenty quick for a driver.
Last edited by tjm73; Apr 5, 2005 at 11:22 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,890
Likes: 10
From: La Verne, California
You only want to do a "Mild" P&P, fore if you do To much you will be rather disappointed w/ the results otherwise.
If you wish to add Top End to a 300 I-6........
Taken from "The Joy of Six" article by Jim Richardson, printed in "Custom Classic Trucks" Aug. 2001 issue on Pg. 70.
Header (Borla is preferable)
Four-Bbl. Manifold (Offenhauser is preferable starting @ $187.00 for a D/P)
500-600 cfm carb.
270 Degree Cam
0.060 inch off the Head for a 9-10:1 Compression Ratio
Forged Pistons
After market High Performance Distributor & Coil
Doug Fisher Vibration Damper
Have a Machine Shop Magnaflux the block & head for cracks, make sure the deck is flat so you don't blow a head gasket, put in new forged pistons & rings, make sure block isn't warped, have the engine aligned bored if necessary, replace all barings, port it, install bigger valves, better valve springs, heavy duty keepers, bore the block 0.060 over, put on a new timing gear, you'll more than like have to grind the crankshaft, have the mating surfaces ground flat where the manifolds bolt on, then bolt the manifold together & grind them flat as well, have the whole engine ballanced including the flywheel.
If you wish to add Top End to a 300 I-6........
Taken from "The Joy of Six" article by Jim Richardson, printed in "Custom Classic Trucks" Aug. 2001 issue on Pg. 70.
Header (Borla is preferable)
Four-Bbl. Manifold (Offenhauser is preferable starting @ $187.00 for a D/P)
500-600 cfm carb.
270 Degree Cam
0.060 inch off the Head for a 9-10:1 Compression Ratio
Forged Pistons
After market High Performance Distributor & Coil
Doug Fisher Vibration Damper
Have a Machine Shop Magnaflux the block & head for cracks, make sure the deck is flat so you don't blow a head gasket, put in new forged pistons & rings, make sure block isn't warped, have the engine aligned bored if necessary, replace all barings, port it, install bigger valves, better valve springs, heavy duty keepers, bore the block 0.060 over, put on a new timing gear, you'll more than like have to grind the crankshaft, have the mating surfaces ground flat where the manifolds bolt on, then bolt the manifold together & grind them flat as well, have the whole engine ballanced including the flywheel.
Last edited by Col Flashman; Apr 6, 2005 at 04:54 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
I see that Holley makes 350cfm 2 barrel carbs, so I'd go with 2 of those on the Clifford intake. A single carb is out of the question. One carb just won't look right on an exposed and long engine like the 300. It would lack visual balence IMO.
Thanks for the tips.
I've foudn out that the later engines have rods with the small end measuring 0.9754". That means they could rather easily be bushed for full floating pins and that means 289/302/351 pistons are and option with that modification. That's a much more desireable way to get 9.5ish compression.
Thanks for the tips.
I've foudn out that the later engines have rods with the small end measuring 0.9754". That means they could rather easily be bushed for full floating pins and that means 289/302/351 pistons are and option with that modification. That's a much more desireable way to get 9.5ish compression.
