95 f150 4x4, auto hubs; here's the question. Is it worth buying a hub/rotor assembly w/races? Or do I just buy the rotor and press the hub out myself? Is it a pretty simple job to press the hub from the rotor? Is it just a matter of pressing the studs out and they come apart, I have access to a press if needed? I see a hub/rotor assembly on ebay for $130, I would also need bearings. If I just replace the rotors, do I need new studs or can I reuse them? Rotors will cost @$80. What is the better choice? What else do I need, seals, tools? Sorry so many questions but I want to be informed before I start. Thanks for any info you can give me.
Al

 

Ok, I'll try and take these in order.

Pressing the hub onto the rotor isn't hard. You can use a press, or you can use a hammer and a punch. Plan on getting the rotor turned after you do either - it *will* warp the rotor.

If your races are in good shape and aren't worn, you don't need to replace.

You can re-use studs, but since we're talking about $10 in studs, I always replace them.

If you want to replace bearings, there's an inner and an outer bearing and one inner grease seal.

Buying a complete assembly vs. re-using the old one - well, it's really up to you. There are pros and cons either way.

Tools - 95 I believe was a transition year. You will either need a four pronged spindle socket, or a large (35mm or so) socket to get the spindle nut off. You'll also need snap ring pliers and possible a pick set for removing the hub retaining ring. I have actually never had a truck with auto hubs, so I've never taken them apart. I cannot imagine they are difficult. I'd recommend getting a Haynes/Chiltons manual if you don't already have one. They will be a big help.

 

So even if I buy new rotors and put them on the old hubs, I will have to have them turned? That kind of defeats the purpose; doesn't it? I pulled the hubs off and got down past two washers, from there it looks like I need the four prong socket (manufacture date 4/95), is that right? I guess I'm probably better off getting the whole assemblies over just the rotors. Anyone else have any suggestions?

Thanks Al

 

Come on guys, I need your help. After the slotted/plastic/metal washers, where do I go from there? I guess I'm still in the auto hub, but how do I get the next component off, do I need a special tool?

 

I guess I'll answer my own questions here. After doing alot of searches, I found that the inner hub or cam assembly as Ford calls it, just pulls out with a little force. Now I can get to the spindle nut to remove the rotor.

Thanks
Al

 

Well that wasn't too bad. About three hours, two for the first side, one for the other. Replaced rotors(cross drilled and grooved), pads, wheel bearings, and swapped in a set of manual hubs. Still one question though. Mile Marker hubs, do I just use the supplied snap ring for the outer end of the stub. The directions say to use the axle retaining ring, I assume this is the C-ring that holds the three washers against the wheel bearing lock nut. If I use all of these, the hub does not side all the way on. Anyone have a clue?

Thanks
Al

 

Not sure about the mile markers but the warn hubs need a conversion kit, which is just the two spindle nuts and a new lock washer for in between the spindle nuts. They are different thicknesses. I replaced my auto hubs with the warns and am very happy with them.

 

I got the conversion kit, but is the snap ring on the outside of the hub suppose to hold the stub out? Or is there more to it?

Thanks
Al

 

Yes the snap ring holds the stub. If you can't get it on the stub shaft probally got pushed in a little so just go behind where the ujoint is and push the shaft back out. I use a screw driver, it will move easy.

 

Thank you to the members that helped me out. Now on to the next project, the rusting muffler.

Thanks again
Al