Engine rebuild
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 47
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From: Farmington, UT
Engine rebuild
I am looking at rebuilding my worn out 460 motor. A local shop will sell me a complete stock replacement installed for $3000. I have been thinking that if I am going to go to the expense of a new engine, why not pump it up a bit? In talking to the shop, the will rebuild mine for the same price and any extras I want, they will charge the difference for the upgrades.
Please send me some advice as to what I should do to increase my power. I have done the KN filter, 3" cat back, SuperChip, bumped up the fuel pressure, re-geared the diff's. I only want engine stuff this time.
I want the power to pull. I tow a 24 ft trailer and 2 four wheelers. I want some good stump pulling power. I know I can put in a RV Cam but is their a specific one? How about pistons? The shop would even blueprint and balance the engine for an additional charge. Would that be worth it on a truck?
Thanks for your help.
Please send me some advice as to what I should do to increase my power. I have done the KN filter, 3" cat back, SuperChip, bumped up the fuel pressure, re-geared the diff's. I only want engine stuff this time.
I want the power to pull. I tow a 24 ft trailer and 2 four wheelers. I want some good stump pulling power. I know I can put in a RV Cam but is their a specific one? How about pistons? The shop would even blueprint and balance the engine for an additional charge. Would that be worth it on a truck?
Thanks for your help.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
From: Durham
Engine rebuild
Investigate heads (major hp gains), headers (a must), intake or mass air (can't remember if you're EFI or not) and cam. Those items will buy you a ton of hp and torque.
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 808
Likes: 3
Engine rebuild
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 27-Jan-01 AT 04:55 AM (EST)[/font][p]Well, like Slik asked. Is your truck EFI or CARB? IF its EFI you are going to be limited a little on what you can do. A major cam upgrade (huge lob seperation) on a EFI with a MAP setup with give you a headache. Other upgrades are fine though: headers, better Ignition, timing components, and HEAD PORT WORK will noticeably improve a BB. I just upgraded my truck with a Banks Power Pack setup. Completely satisfied with it.
If you are CARB based, the sky the limit. Just remember to use compatible components. Cam/Carb setup is Critical. Don't go overboard with a huge cam and carb. It would be a waste of money and fuel. Holley's in general use more fuel than a Edelbrock/AFB's IMO out the box. The latter of the 2 will yeild easier needle change's without getting fuel all over your new engine and changing metering gaskets, jets and power valves. To me Holley's need more tweaking. They work good when right, but usually they need alittle more tweaking. I've had good success with both, so it would be a matter of choice for you. If you towing alot, (seems you are), a cam working from idle to 5500 would work great. We're not trying to break speed records but only trying to pull down the neighbors house instead..........LOL Fords like a centerline grind of 110 or better. Most stock replacement cams out the box have a 4 degree retard built in so you might try to have your cam degreed and see where it dials in at. I've used Comp Cams, Crane, Seal Power, and Perfect Circle cams. Perfect Circle and Sealed Power are the same company. I haven't had a problem with either of them. I've used Comp Cams more of the 4. I also believe Edelbrock makes a good cam, but haven't used one yet. Same goes for pistons. Speed Pro/TRW, Sealed Power and Kieth Black Silver Lite pistons. TRW pistons seems to be the heavist compared to most. You might try Keith Black Silver lites. Compression Ratios will depend on the cc chamber and year. Usually around 8.5 or more. Too many varibles to list here. Go by your current piston/head setup to see where you are. I would make another suggestion on this. Your current rod bolts are fine, but why not upgrade to ARP's. They're a great product and its cheap insurance.
On BB's, port work on the heads will be a GREAT HELP!! Especially in the exhaust bowl area and ports. Be carefull though. I've ported SB stuff and have heard the BB heads have limited material area. Don't completely remove emission bumps on ceiling of exhaust ports. You'd be buying a new set of heads. Just have it cleaned up, work in the bowl area and match port it and clean up the runners. I'll find out soon enough,(doing a par in a month or so). I'm sure someone hear can advise further on that. Check the 385 series catagory posting too. I've used Titanium or Stainless Intake valves and Sodium filled exhaust valves on the high end stuff. Cooler running exhaust valves will yield you a few more ponies. There is a expense though. Otherwise, Stainless reverse swirl valves work great.
As for the shop supplying a rebuilt engine and not using your original, it depends on the year of the block/heads. I'm very particular on these items. Certain years are more desireable than others to some. If this is not a major concern, one off the shelf would be a quicker swap. If you have a D7TE or D8TE casting, you would have a 4bolt main block and might want to keep it. It really doesnt' matter too much unless you're building a stroker motor and hauling 1/4 passes....hehehe 2bolts hold up fantastic. One feature I do like on the late model blocks is the one piece rear main. This is just a preference for me.
Didn't mean for this to be so lengthy.
Just remember, DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE YOU START, use compatible components and you will have years of satisfaction and service with all the right stuff.
Good luck,
Xaviar
96 F250HD 4x4
460/E4OD 4.10
If you are CARB based, the sky the limit. Just remember to use compatible components. Cam/Carb setup is Critical. Don't go overboard with a huge cam and carb. It would be a waste of money and fuel. Holley's in general use more fuel than a Edelbrock/AFB's IMO out the box. The latter of the 2 will yeild easier needle change's without getting fuel all over your new engine and changing metering gaskets, jets and power valves. To me Holley's need more tweaking. They work good when right, but usually they need alittle more tweaking. I've had good success with both, so it would be a matter of choice for you. If you towing alot, (seems you are), a cam working from idle to 5500 would work great. We're not trying to break speed records but only trying to pull down the neighbors house instead..........LOL Fords like a centerline grind of 110 or better. Most stock replacement cams out the box have a 4 degree retard built in so you might try to have your cam degreed and see where it dials in at. I've used Comp Cams, Crane, Seal Power, and Perfect Circle cams. Perfect Circle and Sealed Power are the same company. I haven't had a problem with either of them. I've used Comp Cams more of the 4. I also believe Edelbrock makes a good cam, but haven't used one yet. Same goes for pistons. Speed Pro/TRW, Sealed Power and Kieth Black Silver Lite pistons. TRW pistons seems to be the heavist compared to most. You might try Keith Black Silver lites. Compression Ratios will depend on the cc chamber and year. Usually around 8.5 or more. Too many varibles to list here. Go by your current piston/head setup to see where you are. I would make another suggestion on this. Your current rod bolts are fine, but why not upgrade to ARP's. They're a great product and its cheap insurance.
On BB's, port work on the heads will be a GREAT HELP!! Especially in the exhaust bowl area and ports. Be carefull though. I've ported SB stuff and have heard the BB heads have limited material area. Don't completely remove emission bumps on ceiling of exhaust ports. You'd be buying a new set of heads. Just have it cleaned up, work in the bowl area and match port it and clean up the runners. I'll find out soon enough,(doing a par in a month or so). I'm sure someone hear can advise further on that. Check the 385 series catagory posting too. I've used Titanium or Stainless Intake valves and Sodium filled exhaust valves on the high end stuff. Cooler running exhaust valves will yield you a few more ponies. There is a expense though. Otherwise, Stainless reverse swirl valves work great.
As for the shop supplying a rebuilt engine and not using your original, it depends on the year of the block/heads. I'm very particular on these items. Certain years are more desireable than others to some. If this is not a major concern, one off the shelf would be a quicker swap. If you have a D7TE or D8TE casting, you would have a 4bolt main block and might want to keep it. It really doesnt' matter too much unless you're building a stroker motor and hauling 1/4 passes....hehehe 2bolts hold up fantastic. One feature I do like on the late model blocks is the one piece rear main. This is just a preference for me.
Didn't mean for this to be so lengthy.
Just remember, DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE YOU START, use compatible components and you will have years of satisfaction and service with all the right stuff.
Good luck,
Xaviar
96 F250HD 4x4
460/E4OD 4.10
