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Few questions / comments:
- I saw they used teflon tape on the joints they screwed in so used it on all the joints I screwed in. Will that cause any problems?
- Mounting it on the DS frame using the step rail holes was perfect, I did have hose leftover.
- I used a #8 grade brass bolt/washer/lock nut/nut on the bottom hole. But the top I could not get inside to reach so re-used the Ford step rail bolt. It seems very solid, that what you did? Or did you cut a hole in the metal to put a bolt in the top as well?
- Even though the canister is way below the engin and gets good airflow it still seems to get VERY hot to the touch.
- It only took about 2-3min for oil to startp seeping out the Aux port on the canister, was pretty slick. I guess I can use that to pull samples for Blackstone.
Thats it for now. All in all, once I actually knew where to mount it, the entire install took about two hours.
Looks good! For some reason, mine doesn't get hot and I don't think I'm getting much flow to it. I've been working with Oilguard on this, and they've been very responsive. Did a test today, and only got 8 ounces of oil via the sample port in a minute - engine at 1800 rpm. When monitoring the return line into the oil fill neck, it just dribbles out.
Shoot, mine was dropping oil out with the little valve only 1/2 a turn and the nut only loosened. I did not even have to take it all the way off, or open the aux all the way up, to find out there was oil flow.
Thanks Tim, spoke with Mark yesterday. He's going to test the flow on some 6.0's he has access to and get back to me. Last night I disassembled everything, checked for blockage, blew the lines out, still same result. Had to do a "kid shuttle" and after 15 minutes on the highway, each way, canister doesn't even get warm, indicating no/minimal oil flow. I'll wait to see what Mark comes up with next.
While it is idling, you did the "lift oil return cap" and found the problem?
Yes, and also had the RPMs run up as well - still just dribbled out. Initially no flow, but after about 30 miles of driving, got some. Mark had me test the filter inflow by opening the aux port. with engine at 1800 rpm, only got 8 oz in 1 minute. He indicated he didn't think that was right, and will check on some other engines.
I also just sent Mark the following observation - may not be much, but all I can think of:
Measured Oilguard filter cap (new red one) with filter installed. Measured from the bottom of the filter, to the seating lip on the filter cap (where it meets with the filter housing). Did the same for my OEM cap and a clean filter installed. The Oilguard cap/filter is approx. 1/8" longer in this measurement.
Thought:
Could this additional length be opening the bypass port in the filter housing, thus limiting pressure? 20psi is the spec. relief pressure for that valve, so we should see up to that pressure if all is right.
I did a one minute test, idle and engine cold, mine stays in the garage all the time so motor temp was 68 degrees....got 1 & 1/2 cups at idle.
Now you have a comparison ...I do have the old oil filter cap, one of his first... out of aluminum
Fixed! Mark and Ray at Oilguard are great. Problem was eventually the outlet orafice - plugged. Good 'ol paperclip took care of it. Ray did explain my prior test of just opening the aux port 3-4 turns won't flow much. So, I took his advice, opened it all the way up, and had a quart in about 20 seconds. That ruled out the inflow side of things, and all that was left was to ensure the outlet was working right.
Once that was done, everything working great and the filter canister heated right up - good output into the fill tube too.
Tks for the support all and I would definitely recommend Oilguard's customer service. Stuff happens, its what a vendor will do to assist that really differentiates.
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