Ball joint installation help
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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Ball joint installation help
So I press the joint in and reassemble everything alright and begin to torque all the nuts to spec. On the Ball joint stud nut I get it to 100ft lbs and the castle nut just begins to cover the cotter pin opening.
Now the question is, do I crank it down to get another 10 degrees rotation or back it off 2 degrees to insert the pin? I backed it off and slid the cotter pin in. Was that a mistake?
Thanks,
Matt
Now the question is, do I crank it down to get another 10 degrees rotation or back it off 2 degrees to insert the pin? I backed it off and slid the cotter pin in. Was that a mistake?
Thanks,
Matt
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Joined: Oct 2000
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balljoint
Dr coffee how and what did you use to press it in with.My dealer say's it is a heck of a job and should be left to them!!! Said it would cost $377 for labor with parts and alingment extra.
If it's not that bad of a job I will do it myself,the pressing in part made me hold off.
Thanks
If it's not that bad of a job I will do it myself,the pressing in part made me hold off.
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 140
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The tool you need is a ball joint press that can be borrowed from pep boys or autozone for free. I would recommend an impact wrench if you have one but a breaker bar at a minimum. when you start pressing it out, wack the ball joint with a hammer as you squeeze it out, to help it move. It goes in a lot easier. It takes a whole 3 hours to do each one.
Lift and support the cross member on jack stands because you'll need the lift again to raise the lower A arm up to separate the ball joint from the nuckle. The upper pinch bolt nees to be remove completely, not just loosened.
It's also a good time to do your brakes while you have it all apart. I found my drivers side had frozen up and needed a new caliper. Before you start make sure that you have a socket large enough for the spindle nut, I believe it was 1 1/4".
All in all it was an easy but time consumming job. The ball joint cost $35. I'd say go for it.
Lift and support the cross member on jack stands because you'll need the lift again to raise the lower A arm up to separate the ball joint from the nuckle. The upper pinch bolt nees to be remove completely, not just loosened.
It's also a good time to do your brakes while you have it all apart. I found my drivers side had frozen up and needed a new caliper. Before you start make sure that you have a socket large enough for the spindle nut, I believe it was 1 1/4".
All in all it was an easy but time consumming job. The ball joint cost $35. I'd say go for it.
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Thanks for the info on R&R of the lower b/joints.I have access to a semi tractor
truck repair shop,so the air tools and large tools will be handy.Sure save me the money the dealer wants.
truck repair shop,so the air tools and large tools will be handy.Sure save me the money the dealer wants.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
gearloose if you decide to try replacing the ball joints yourself I just posted a how-to in the 97-03 F-150 forum. It's not for an Explorer but the general procedure is pretty much the same. It might give you an idea of what's involved.
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