Preventive maintenance.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 772
Likes: 3
From: Mount Airy, MD
Preventive maintenance.
What kind of preventive maintenance do you guys do or suggest, if any, on the engine or truck itself, at 75,000? I know Ford lists some things in the owners manual. One thing they suggest is replacing the coils, but I can't see replacing them just for the sake of replacing them, unless they are faulty. I'm just curious what you folks out there do. I keep my truck maintained very well but I'm always looking for more things I might not be aware of. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 38
KenneBF250V10
Here is a short list:
I do an engine "detail" about every 25K-30k. First step being a pretty thorough cleaning. I have stopped using simple green and water. Now I use WD40 and those Blue shop towels in a spray and wipe PITA method.
One of these days my wife or kids will have pity on me and get a special "creeper"for me that lets you lay OVER the top of the engine bay.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=357638&R=357 638
Takes about 4 hours and I check the tightness of every nut and bolt I can find and reach with out too much "access" disassembly.
I take out one plug from each side and critically inspect with a magnifying glass. If either one "felt" loose, I pull all 10 and then decide on new or just reinstall (most of the time I reinstall but if even one looks funky she gets 10 new)
Every 50k I drain and package the coolant and replace with a 5 gallon jug of my delivered "Ozarka" bottled water and run it for a few then drain and package that also and put back in Fords recommended coolant mix. Our tap water here has too much mineral content is why I spend the $6 for the bottled filtered stuff.
I use a tube of "dielectric grease" and every electrical connector I can get too with out too much "access" disassembly gets opened and a tooth pick is used to put some of the grease on the rubber seal on the connectors. While they are open I look closely are the contacts with a mag to see if any corrosion is in there. I use an expensive electrical contact cleaner if I see any funk. I have the battery ground disconnected for this inspection. When done I chase down each "ground" and un-bolt and re-bolt after scuffing up the ground surface to remove any rust/corrosion.
I Spend a lot of time with the truck on BIG jack stands removing each wheel , inspecting brakes, rotors, hubs. I spray silicone oil in and around every part of the ESOF auto 4x4 front hubs and lock unlock several times by hand and by vacuum. Cover all brake and rotor parts and DO NOT get any of the silicon spray on them!
With the tires off I have my wife or son turn the wheel lock to lock several times and fully push pull on every steering and suspension component looking for loose or worn end connectors, ball joints, steer box and all associated suspension stuff.
On my last three trucks the this inspection helped me find bad brake lines, warn end links, bad 4x4 front drive shaft "U" joint, and one questionable ball joint.
I remove the front and rear diff covers and clean and repaint the cover. I thoroughly clean out the interior of the diff using about half a can of WD40 and blue paper shop towels. I use brake cleaner to de-oil the cover flange so the silicone RTV new gasket stuff will stick good.
I personally stick with all Fords recommended lubes. I test stuff for a living now. My research does not conclude that more expensive "other premium brand" stuff does any better for the extra cost.
On the rear Limited Slip rear end I do NOT add any friction modifier until the test drive.
On the test drive I go over 5 miles into town to Wall Mart of similar big parking lot. The drive fully heats up the rear lube.
I do a series of forward and backing very tight turns feeling for the LS unit chatter. I add 1 to 2 oz of friction modifier at a time until the chatter reduces to just noticeable.
Usually between 4 and 6 oz. I want the LS unit to be on the tight side. Too much modifier completely stops the chatter and this is probably good for long clutch life but then you do not have good friction or tension for the "breakaway" torque of the LS unit to always work.
Here is a short list:
I do an engine "detail" about every 25K-30k. First step being a pretty thorough cleaning. I have stopped using simple green and water. Now I use WD40 and those Blue shop towels in a spray and wipe PITA method.
One of these days my wife or kids will have pity on me and get a special "creeper"for me that lets you lay OVER the top of the engine bay.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=357638&R=357 638
Takes about 4 hours and I check the tightness of every nut and bolt I can find and reach with out too much "access" disassembly.
I take out one plug from each side and critically inspect with a magnifying glass. If either one "felt" loose, I pull all 10 and then decide on new or just reinstall (most of the time I reinstall but if even one looks funky she gets 10 new)
Every 50k I drain and package the coolant and replace with a 5 gallon jug of my delivered "Ozarka" bottled water and run it for a few then drain and package that also and put back in Fords recommended coolant mix. Our tap water here has too much mineral content is why I spend the $6 for the bottled filtered stuff.
I use a tube of "dielectric grease" and every electrical connector I can get too with out too much "access" disassembly gets opened and a tooth pick is used to put some of the grease on the rubber seal on the connectors. While they are open I look closely are the contacts with a mag to see if any corrosion is in there. I use an expensive electrical contact cleaner if I see any funk. I have the battery ground disconnected for this inspection. When done I chase down each "ground" and un-bolt and re-bolt after scuffing up the ground surface to remove any rust/corrosion.
I Spend a lot of time with the truck on BIG jack stands removing each wheel , inspecting brakes, rotors, hubs. I spray silicone oil in and around every part of the ESOF auto 4x4 front hubs and lock unlock several times by hand and by vacuum. Cover all brake and rotor parts and DO NOT get any of the silicon spray on them!
With the tires off I have my wife or son turn the wheel lock to lock several times and fully push pull on every steering and suspension component looking for loose or worn end connectors, ball joints, steer box and all associated suspension stuff.
On my last three trucks the this inspection helped me find bad brake lines, warn end links, bad 4x4 front drive shaft "U" joint, and one questionable ball joint.
I remove the front and rear diff covers and clean and repaint the cover. I thoroughly clean out the interior of the diff using about half a can of WD40 and blue paper shop towels. I use brake cleaner to de-oil the cover flange so the silicone RTV new gasket stuff will stick good.
I personally stick with all Fords recommended lubes. I test stuff for a living now. My research does not conclude that more expensive "other premium brand" stuff does any better for the extra cost.
On the rear Limited Slip rear end I do NOT add any friction modifier until the test drive.
On the test drive I go over 5 miles into town to Wall Mart of similar big parking lot. The drive fully heats up the rear lube.
I do a series of forward and backing very tight turns feeling for the LS unit chatter. I add 1 to 2 oz of friction modifier at a time until the chatter reduces to just noticeable.
Usually between 4 and 6 oz. I want the LS unit to be on the tight side. Too much modifier completely stops the chatter and this is probably good for long clutch life but then you do not have good friction or tension for the "breakaway" torque of the LS unit to always work.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 16
Fred, good link and that top creeper looks awesome. That would be worth 200 bucks to have a little comfort working on the top of the motor. I feel sorry for automotive mechanics , they are always working in the most awkward positions. I am an industrial mechanic ( millwright) and get in some tight places sometimes but most of the time the work is right in front of me. We have kneeling pads if we need them . Good post on maintenance and I can see who ever buys your old trucks gets a well maintained vehicle. I keep a log on every vehicle I own. Everything I do is written down. Even when I wax the vehicle I log it. Take care, wrench.
