rear suspension modifications
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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rear suspension modifications
Ok boys, here is one for you.. I have a 2004 E350 Super Duty 15 pass Van /v10 that I am building as a toy hauler / back country camping machine. I took the last two rows of seats out and built a full size custom bed in the back. although I don't load it with people, I do tow a couple of atv's on a trailer and stuff all my camping equipment under the bed in the back.
I hate the way the van handles in turns, the way the cross wind effects it and passing a tractor trailer at freeway speeds can sometimes be scarry. what modifications can be made to the suspension (especially the rear) to make it a little more stable in the turns, passing rigs and towing?
Does anyone have any experience with suspension air bags? sway bars? overload springs? ??????
I hate the way the van handles in turns, the way the cross wind effects it and passing a tractor trailer at freeway speeds can sometimes be scarry. what modifications can be made to the suspension (especially the rear) to make it a little more stable in the turns, passing rigs and towing?
Does anyone have any experience with suspension air bags? sway bars? overload springs? ??????
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
The only way you'll get it more stable is to lower it or lengthen it. Take your pick. You can try bigger sway bars, stiffer shocks, 10 ply tires (if you can find them). I know about the issues with them, I learned to drive in a 1983 E350 15 pass, and had a 1982 E350 15pass as my first vehicle. You won't be able to do much about crosswinds as these vans are like billboards on wheels.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 59
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From: San Francisco
Hi DR,
We have 2003 V10 E350 Ext 15 pass. It is IFS 4 Wheel Drive, Ride height is stock at rear, Front is 2" higher so van actually now sits level vs. The nose down / butt up profile of the 2WD E350's.
Nevertheless, the following could be applied to the 2WD vans and would yeild a very marked improvement in handling.
Suspension mods as follows:
Double Bilstein shocks at each front corner
Single Bilstein each rear corner
Bilstein Steering Dampner/
1-1/2" HUB Centric Spacers on each rear wheel to correct the rear track to match front.
Wheels and Tires are stock 245/75-16 E Rated Radials
IPD 1 3/8" Rear Sway Bar
Our van Handles like a dream on curvey mountain roads and freeway. I also hate that swaying feeling when loaded. We have none of that with the above set-up.
Quadvan is where we had the conversion done. I have no affliation with them other than they did our conversion and I liked the name!
Ray
We have 2003 V10 E350 Ext 15 pass. It is IFS 4 Wheel Drive, Ride height is stock at rear, Front is 2" higher so van actually now sits level vs. The nose down / butt up profile of the 2WD E350's.
Nevertheless, the following could be applied to the 2WD vans and would yeild a very marked improvement in handling.
Suspension mods as follows:
Double Bilstein shocks at each front corner
Single Bilstein each rear corner
Bilstein Steering Dampner/
1-1/2" HUB Centric Spacers on each rear wheel to correct the rear track to match front.
Wheels and Tires are stock 245/75-16 E Rated Radials
IPD 1 3/8" Rear Sway Bar
Our van Handles like a dream on curvey mountain roads and freeway. I also hate that swaying feeling when loaded. We have none of that with the above set-up.
Quadvan is where we had the conversion done. I have no affliation with them other than they did our conversion and I liked the name!
Ray
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rear suspension modifications
Awesome advice QV. As pfogle indicated, I knew it was going to be somewhat of a task, But I definately like the idea of additional shocks at the rear. why didn't I think of that? Unfortunately my van did not come with a rear sway bar, so I think I will go with that as well. Unfortunately I have a side slider so I will not be able to space out my rears, but I did hear of another guy on this forum attempting to space out his side slider as it opens. I may have to wait until he has success before I attempt this.
while I was waiting for replies to this question, I decided to order an airbag system for the rear leafs. hopefully this in addition to the dbl shocks at the rear and a sway bar will help. I am also going to visit my local RV outfitter and see about that steering damper.
while I was waiting for replies to this question, I decided to order an airbag system for the rear leafs. hopefully this in addition to the dbl shocks at the rear and a sway bar will help. I am also going to visit my local RV outfitter and see about that steering damper.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 131
From: Maryville
I put air bags inside the coils up front of my 15 passenger van, and they were rather easy to add. Shortly after, I had a deer jump out in front of me on a country road, with the swerving that I had to do, without the bags, I believe I would have lost control. I haven't corrected the rear yet, I really want a truck dually axle, I'm not fond of spacers.
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Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Yes, makeing the rear stiffer is a good idea, but if you get too stiff, you will really make the ride in the back seats pretty rough. If thats not an issue, then great. I would stiffen the rear, and not the front.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 44
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From: The Netherlands
Hello Desert-Rat,
I think this will do a lot to the handling of your truck.
Do you have a swaybar at the rear already, if so try a stiffer one, otherwise install one.
And install a Panhard rod, this will keep your axle in place, without the axle is pushed off-centre by cross winds, in corners, etc.
Better is to use a Watt-paralellogram, with this the axle can only move in a straight line up and down, with the Panhard rod it moves in a big arc.
Rudi
I think this will do a lot to the handling of your truck.
Do you have a swaybar at the rear already, if so try a stiffer one, otherwise install one.
And install a Panhard rod, this will keep your axle in place, without the axle is pushed off-centre by cross winds, in corners, etc.
Better is to use a Watt-paralellogram, with this the axle can only move in a straight line up and down, with the Panhard rod it moves in a big arc.
Rudi
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Senior User
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rear suspension modifications
Rudi,
Tell me more about these Panhard Rods.. Where can I do some research?
So far I have opted for rear and front air bags, rear sway bar and double shocks at each rear corner? But I have never heard of Panhard Rods?
Frank
Tell me more about these Panhard Rods.. Where can I do some research?
So far I have opted for rear and front air bags, rear sway bar and double shocks at each rear corner? But I have never heard of Panhard Rods?
Frank
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 44
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From: The Netherlands
Originally Posted by Desert-Rat
Rudi,
Tell me more about these Panhard Rods.. Where can I do some research?
So far I have opted for rear and front air bags, rear sway bar and double shocks at each rear corner? But I have never heard of Panhard Rods?
Frank
Tell me more about these Panhard Rods.. Where can I do some research?
So far I have opted for rear and front air bags, rear sway bar and double shocks at each rear corner? But I have never heard of Panhard Rods?
Frank
The names "Panhard bar" and "Watts linkage" are the more frequent names.
I've tried the combinations "panhard bar", "panhard watts", "dedion watts", etc. on Google, well, you could spend a few days...
Here are a few selections with useful information.
How control bars affect handling: http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020911.htm
Panhard Bars: The Rest of the Story! http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml
Some pictures from the Panhard and Watts: http://www.artmorrison.com/techtipstwo.htm (the drawing of the Watts is not completly correct!)
Build your own Panhard bar: http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/suspension/aapanhard/aapanhardbar.htm
How to build a Watts linkage: http://www.newtier.com/graber/mid-engine/Images/Rear_Drive_Cradle/07-07-03/index.html
As you can see both systems are easy to made by yourself, i'm thinking of a Watts for my E-150, it's a bit more complex, but it's the better of those two.
If you want to know more ask me, maybe a have an answer.
I have experience with the Watts, i have had several Alfa Romeo's with it, i still do have the GTV6 '85 which i have completely rebuild in the early 90's, imported out of the state Maryland into the Netherlands.
The body is still original, but what is in and under it... no, not realy!
At this moment it is in a barn under a lot off dust, i have no time for it, maybe someone finds it over 50 years, an old GTV6 in good shape... forgotten by his owner!
Rudi
Last edited by Eco?noline; Apr 7, 2005 at 04:52 PM.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
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From: Sweden
If you don't have polyurethane sway bar bushings, install them! The common rubber stuff is too squishy and wear easily, negating the function of the sway bar.
Also if you do not have a rear sway bar, consider installing one.
Also if you do not have a rear sway bar, consider installing one.