Can the engin be reinstalled w/ the following:

turbo
Y-Pipe
Y-pipe to turbo casting
turbo flange
turbo downpipe
turbo oil feeder tube

And is it easier to install the engine w/ the metal fan already on it?

 

No, the engine needs to be pretty much naked to get it back in. You can have the exhaust manifolds and balancer on, but no pulleys.

 

Can the engin be reinstalled w/ the following:

turbo...yes
Y-Pipe...yes
Y-pipe to turbo casting...yes
turbo flange...yes
turbo downpipe...no
turbo oil feeder tube...yes

And is it easier to install the engine w/ the metal fan already on it?....no way at all

Brackets for accessories....yes
pulleys and accessories...no
air cleaner box...yes
Oil filter...no
And the crossover pipe from the drivers side manifold must be off.

Mine is an 86 though.

 

OK thanks.

Why no pulleys? PS pump, AC pump and vacuum pump on mine dont protrude any further than the brackets... and the pulleys shouldnt hit on anything, if all the others can fit in, ie- crank pulley & water pump pulley...

New water pumps are 114.00 US, by the way.
Valley pan gaskets are 111.00 US.

 

You got hosed on the Waterpump and valley pan..........both should have been half those costs.

 

I take it Dave doesn't have AC. That's the only way he'd get all that in there at once. I had to have the pulleys off to get enough room so I didn't destroy the low side hose with the clutch. If yours is an auto that will give you a few extra inches.

 

I have AC.
I have an 86 with a 2" body lift.
I bought a complete reman drop in engine with turbo upgrade installed.
It had been run and dyno'ed before it was shipped.

I did install the brackets for the accessories before the install.
I did install the flywheel and clutch.
I also installed the engine wiring harness on the engine before the install.

I did not install the pulleys.
I did not install the accessories till it was in the truck.
I had to remove the oil filter before the install.

When I had it ready to drop in, the harmonic balancer was pointed at the coolant recovery tank on the inner fender well untill the harmonic ballencer was below the top of the radiator support. At that point I rotated the engine back in line with the driveline. The harmonic balancer was almost touching the AC condensor at that point.
Continued down with the engine till the tranny input shaft started into the clutch. Jacked the transmission up so it would slide the rest of the way into place. This last step was where the oil filter hit the crossmember when it was on the engine. Once it was bolted back to the transmission we dropped it the rest of the way down and secured the motor mounts to the engine. Then install all the pulleys, accessories, hoses and belts. Plug in the wires and hook the alternator wires back up. Hook the batteries up and reinstall the oil filter, fill it with coolant. Install the downpipe. Fire that puppy up.

With the engine problems I have had since I did the first swap, with two mechanics and myself in a garage, we have a complete swap down to 9 hours with a lunch break from the time the hood comes off till it goes back on. But after swapping it three times in one year we all know exactly what we each have to do.

 

I'll admit I used to do the sideways thing too, but as of late it has been more trouble than it's worth. This last 88 I just finished was the truck from hell. It took forever to get it in and bolted up.

Dave,
As many times as you guys have had that setup out and back in, you need to do it blindfolded the next time to make it a challenge.

I know, there better not be a next time, right?

 

Man I hope not. I guess the next time we could shoot for under 8 hours.
A little over 13,000 on the last one and hot idle oil pressure is about 4 pounds.
I like everything but the workmanship, or lack of workmanship would be a more accurate statement.
Thank god for warranties is all I can say.
Nice power, fuel mileage is still increasing with every tank of fuel, oil stays in the engine instead of out the stacks.
Maybe the third time is the charm, but I am still worried with the oil pressure at idle.
Constant 40 pounds at speed though.
I am considering an external oil cooler to see if that helps, but the only place I can figure out how to get full oil flow is by mounting a remote oil filter and routing the filtered oil through the cooler before it returns to the stock filter location. Then I would be concerned that the cooler would restrict the flow to much.

What are your thoughts on that?

 

Those were dealer prices, I didnt buy them. No one makes a valley pan/intake gasket for mine, or at least no on caries them or can order them.

Does felpro make the valley pan?

 

I think the stock cooler is more than enough, but 4 lbs is pretty spooky. I wonder if the relief valve is leaking?