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Last weekend while I was hauling 3 snowmobiles (two on trailer, one in bed) my trucks temperature gage rose up from where it normally runs. It normally runs at the O of normal, and it was running at the M while pulling. I didn't think much of this at first, but when I drove the truck around without any load the gage rose to the M again. I took a quick look under the hood and didn't see anything funny at all, fluids ok, no leaks. Well on monday morning I looked again and found that the tube that runs to the overflow tank was disconnected, I reattached it hoping this was the problem. Nope, the truck is still running hotter than normal. The thermostat is less than a year old, so I am not suspecting this but I have been surprised before. Does anybody have any ideas?????
Thanks for any help!!!
93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!
I wouldn't get too upset about fluctuations in the factory temperature "gauge" readings. I think it is little more than an idiot light just like the oil pressure "gauge". If you really want to know what is going on under the hood you need to install quality aftermarket gauges.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
The temp gauge is a resistance type gauge & it is failry accurate . With the coolant overflow hose off , you likely lost some coolant . Did you check the coolant level ? . Do you know how the hose got removed ? It may be you have a radiator cap that isnt holding pressure ? Have the system pressure checked for leaks along with the radiator cap .
Yeah I did lose some coolant but not nearly as much as I figured I would. The pressure cap was something I had maybe wondered about, but why would it go bad just like that???? I don't have any idea why the overfolw tube fell of, but I know for sure now that it won't anymore as I fixed that problem.
93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!
Radiator caps are like any other part , they fail with time . Just make sure that if you find its defective that you replace it with the same pressure cap .
How exactly do I check that? On my old truck when the clutch went bad you couldn't turn it at all and the fan was always going.
When the truck first starts up, the fan is locked up right? That is why the truck always "roars" for the first minute or so?? I'll have to take a look tomorrow. Thanks.
93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!
For a thermal fan clutch, after the engine is warm and the engine compartment is as well, with the engie turned off (duh) the fan should have some resistance when turning by hand. if there is no resistance, then the clutch is not locking up, or doing a poor job of it, when hot like it's supposed to.
1989 F-150 : 5.0, shorty headers, Flowmaster cat-back, K&N filtercharger intake, March pulleys, "Multi-brand" performance ignition, soon to be Mass-Air...doesn't know she's not a Mustang
Also, When checking the fan clutch, you may actually see an area on the clutch that looks a little wet. Sometimes the fluid in the fan clutch leaks out, thus causing the clutch not to work properly. It will not be real wet, just a little bit with dust stuck to it from the air passing by. Good luck.
Let me run this past you.
A month ago while at idle my battery light came one I revved the engine and it went off. One might think this was the alternator.
Two weeks ago I'm driving to school and my temperature gauge goes way far to the right but still in the normal range and stays there. One might think this was a thermostat. I asked an old Ford guy about this and he said Fords have this paticular problem with their ground connections that caused my symptoms. I'm not sure if this is your problem but check it out.
Daywalker
92' F-250 351 4x4 xlt 4.10 5spd sprcab lngbed
Sound System: Stock Stereo, Rockford 800 watt amp, Vega 18 inch sub 400 watt rms, one Cerwin-Vega LS-12 3 way floor speaker with a 300 watt power capacity, and one Boise floor speaker with a 75 watt power capacity.
Performance Mods: K&N Air Filter.
Cosmetic Mods: Black Grill Guard, 5% window tint, bug guard, bed liner.
That is an idea that I haven't heard of yet. Monday when I have the truck in the shop I'll take a look at it. I'm also gonna put the truck on the computer and see if I get any codes.
93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!
Well got a chance to take a good look at the truck today and found that it was that fan clutch. I picked oe up and am gonna put it on tomorrow morning. I do have a question though. Why is the ford clutch $124.31 and the one I bought at advance auto $33.91. I know that the FOMOCO stamp always adds a bit, but almost 90 dollars?
93 F-150 4x4 XLT CC SB, 5.8L, E4OD, Off-Road, Super Cooling, Trailer, and Payload packages, Bucket seats, Pioneer CD, and the most beautiful factory paint scheme ever put on a truck: Light blue and silver!!!
Bigmack, That is a good question. I have found that a lot of Ford parts are like that when pricing things out. I suggest, if possible, you compare how they are made. I have found that sometimes the Ford part is built a lot better, and then sometimes it is not. As long that everything is apples to apples, I would go cheaper. Being in business, I have found that over the long run, the Ford parts have surpassed off brand parts. I have been able to compare parts on two different identical trucks in the past. Reguardless of what the part is, I have found that approx 70% of the time, the Ford part has outlasted the aftermarket. I have no connection with the Ford company, I just know what has worked for me. Having a truck down will cost me extra in the long run. Just something to kick around. I have bought a lot of after market parts in the past. Good luck.