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I have a 93 F-150 with the 5.0L with an AOD. Under normal everyday driving (in overdrive) the temp stays on the N of normal. I understand that the ford guages suck, but its a ref mark. When I pull my 17ft alum boat I have to put it in drive (not overdrive). When I do that the temp goes up the the A in normal. I know its going to run a little hotter being in drive but is that to much? To me thats almost in the red. I have had the water pump changed twice in the last 6 months. (thanks to autozones great parts) Once I changed it the other I had a shop do it. So I dont think there is any air pockets. Thermostat has also been changed a couple of times. I am wondering if the temp sensor may be on its way out, or maybe the radiator is starting to clog? Any ideas? Thanks!
In our '88 it would run about the middle of that gauge unloaded (just tools in the back) but hook a trailer to it and wow... HOT HOT HOT. Turned out it was the rad.
I guess it depends on exactly how much faith you put in your guage. I tow a 3,500 lb trailer with my 91, 302, E4OD. Yes, the temp guage usually goes right up to the "A" and sometimes even the "L". I don't sweat it though because I know from experience that when the engine is REALLY cooking the guage shoots all the way to the max. No, I didn't cook the motor because I got it shut down in time. The block heater blew out of the side of the motor and man did things get hot in a hurry. Personally, I think that just for piece of mind I am going to install a good quality after market temp guage, just for backup. You also might want to consider having the rad checked out by a rad shop to make sure that it isn't corroded and junked up.
I could see that happeneing if you were towing a 22 foot fibergass-hulled boat with a chrysler in/out, But a 17 foot aluminum? I am guessing you have a bass boat/river boat with a 35 to 50 horse outboard or something similar. I think something is wrong. Don't forget the radiator has to cool the tranny fluid also, maybe you could attach a tranny cooler in front of the radiator and see if that alone helps. The cooler would only set u back 30 or 40 bucks and can't possibly hurt the transmission, it can only help it.
Last edited by 924x2150; Mar 31, 2005 at 06:29 PM.
Thanks guys for the info. 924x2150 its a 17foot center console with a 70hp for bay fishing, pretty good size but not heavy enough to cause problems. It has a transmission cooler already installed in front of the condencer. At least I think its a tranny cooler may be an oil cooler. But I know the radiator also has one or the other on the side. I dont think much is wrong since I am able to grab the upper radiator hose for a few seconds with out getting burnt. As far as I can remember the hose should be very hot. The only thing that really bothers me about it, is if I have too much water and not enough antifreeze it will boil back into the reservoir and overflows. There something that just isnt right. Thanks again for the good info!
I changed out the radiator and it still gets up to the A in normal. When pulling the boat in drive. The only diffrence the radiator made is it now sits on the line before the normal. On everyday driving. The transmission line goes through the radiator and then to a cooler in front of the condenser then back to the transmission. I dont have an oil cooler. These are the parts that are new. Radiator, fan clutch, waterpump, thermostat, and coolant. Is there any other thing that could be causing this? Or is it something I shouldnt worry about. Thanks
You may need to test the fan clutch, the fan may be slipping all the time. When that coolant gets too hot the clutch is supposed to grab hard onto the water pump pulley and push some serious air. Under normal driving conditions the fan may never even need to engage. I would expect it to engage when towing at some point. Search the FTE site for fan clutch test, it is here somewhere and it is in the Haynes manual also. BTW, when I have towed stuff, the engine got very hot like yours up in the "A" range it isn't going to hurt the engine, but remember when you do alot of towing you must speed up your engine maintenance, oils should be changed more frequently.
Thanks 924x2150 for your reply. I understand that if the guage is working correctly that the "A" would be fine and not to hot. But when the guage is sitting on the line before "normal" and swings all the way to the "A" thats a big jump. And when the water boils back into the tank and overflows because its too hot. Then yes it bothers me and I beleive somthings wrong. I checked the fan clutch and its good and tight when it gets hot. Could it be the temp sensors, both of them? Is there anyway to test, or just replace and hope for the best like I did with the radiator. Whats weird is that it only happens on the way back home when its hotter outside and the suns out. Never happens in the mornings on the way.
Did you notice a spring in the lower radiator hose when the radiator was out? Lack of support in lower suction hose can cause collapsing of hose under higher engine speeds while cruising and results in drop in flow thru radiator. Also in my 95 owners manual for AODE it says not to run in Drive when towing and I found that mine would over heat on interstate going to lake if I ran in Drive vice Overdrive, therefore I use OD to tow 17 fiberglass boat. Good luck.
95X15 thank you. It doesnt get hot if I pull it in OD but in OD I cant keep a steady speed. And when I try to accel just a tad bit it wont. It has to kick out of OD to get speed. Plus everyone I have ever talked to about towing says to be in drive not OD. Cause it will burn up the transmission. Humm dont know what to do now...LoL
I understand your thoughts on OD; mine will hunt a lot on even small grades but does better in OD than Drive (OD light off). It will drop out of OD by letting transmission downshift when it wants to. I just installed double row (HD) radiator, and eventually a new shroud, because of the warm running, when I had to replace front cover gasket.
Another thought - how many miles on truck and how many since transmisson fluid, including torque converter, was changed along with transmission filter? I personally don't like the idea of flushing the transmission thru the cooling lines. I had one transmission shop tell me the AODE should have the fluid filter changed about every 30K miles - just one opinion.
I replaced the transmission last year, because the reverse went out. New torque and filter. But mine is an AOD not electrical on the tranny. Dont even have an OD light. But just got back from fishing and I drove 150 miles round trip with it in OD with no problem. Temp gauge almost got to the N. WooHoo. But its a cool day and hardly any humidity. Odd for Texas Guld Coast weather. So hopefuly everything is good. Thanks for all the help.