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Should I C-Notch ?

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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Should I C-Notch ?

Hi Guys,
I plan on putting a m2 front suspension and a 4 link rear suspension on my 54 and was wondering if i needed to C-Notch the frame to have it sit level or will it be OK without C-notching, and if i do need too, will my 9" rear center pumpkin hit the bed floor once all my suspension is installed. Any and all input on this is well appreciated. I am planning on buying these parts in may at the truck Nationals, can't wait. When i start the installation process i will be up dating my gallery with pics

As always your friend
54 Fever
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:27 AM
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54 fever, when you mount your coil overs, if they're like mine, you will have different mounting holes to choose from. You can select the one that gives you the desired amount of shock travel, raises or lowers your truck, mine are in the lowest setting right now but I,m think I will have to raise them 1 inch, that will give me about 3 inches before hitting pan hard bar on floor boards,

You will definetly need to c-notch if your lowering your truck to make room for some bump stops.

Wayne
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:24 PM
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From: new jersey
Thanks Wayne
I thought that i might have to notch it, just didn't know about the bed floor clearance, i notice alot of trucks have cut outs in there beds to allow for the rear pumpkin to clear. what is your ground clearance and was the job difficult to do?

thanks Ernie
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:10 AM
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Hi Ernie, I'm not sure of ground clearance and trucks at paint shop, but I know from previous measurement that my front sits at 23 1/2" and the back is 25" measured at the center of wheel wells to the ground, I have 2" before the pan hard bar mount hits the wood. so I am going to raise the back shocks 1" for a total of 3" bump stops will be set to stop travel at 2 1/2 to 2 3/4". I hope this helps
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:20 AM
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Hi Ernie I forgot to mention that the job was pretty easy to do, I used a sawzall and 4"grinder to cut notches, but I,m no welder. A friend helped me out.

Also unless you want your truck really "slammed" I don't think you will need a cutout for rearend housing,

I'm pretty low for not having airbags, I wouldn't want to be any lower.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 06:18 AM
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Yea wayne, i just viewed your gallery(had to do it here at work my computer is running super slow) and i agree woundn't want mine any lower either. your truck is sitting at the hieght that i'm shootin for. thanks again for the info.

Ernie
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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I always have to comment on c-notching that it does substantially reduce the cross section of the frame (as if that isn't obvious) and its not a bad idea to radius cut a piece of 2x2 .125 wall tubing and place it on top of the rail to give it some support and help reduce twisting. 2x2 will fit without hitting the bed floor. Good luck
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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I think they make a C-Notch kit for effies i'll have to check.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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54fever the c-notches come with boxing plates. No Limit for one.

also I was thinking that the boxed frame would probably about break even after c-notching, as far as strength

Fatfenders56 do I need to beef up my frame?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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Bed Modification

Just updated my gallery showing my answer to dif. housing hitting bed floor after installing No Limit's C-notch kit and air-over on 53 mercury. That is a round dif. cover with the inspection hole filled.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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From: new jersey
Hiwy50,
Just like to say that you have a very nice truck and that the rear cover in the bed is a excellent solution to compensate for bed clearance problems. Now! get those under the hood pics in so we can see the power plant! lol!
thanks for your input
54 fever
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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wayne et al, I feel that you definitely need to beef up that c-notch area, there are substantial torsional loads on that area of the frame especially if you are making a lot of power or have coil overs/air bags. the frame is going to want to twist and all of the twist is going to the weakest area(the notch) It is real easy to add a "third" boxing plate about 12 inches long inside of the frame rail. this will spread the twist over to the bigger sections of the frame. The hazard here is not that the frame will break as much as it will work harden over time and we have 50 years of stress on these frames already. May sound like overkill but it's way easier than going back to fix it later. FF56
 
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