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On A 1977 F250 4x4 Highboy With A 351m How Tough Is It For A Regular Guy To Change The Valve Covers? Do They Just Unbolt And Slip Off Or Do I Have To Remove Any Other Parts First? I Love My Truck And Working On It But Im No Motorhead And Dont Want To Start And Not Be Able To Finish.you Guys Always Steer Me In The Right Direction So I Trust Your Replies...thanks Mike
Not hard to to do (but may be a little aggravating).If you have P/B and A/C you'll have to work the valve covers around those "obstructions" but it's not that big of a deal.
Quality as in rubber, not cork. I replaced many cork ones before I broke down and got the better ones. Be careful not to get old gasket material down in around the valve springs and rockers. It could plug up an oil passage and cause problems.
Adding onto the above-said statements, you need to make sure that you torque your covers properly when you put them back on. There is a specific torque rating, as well as a specfic order in which to torque the bolts. Not following proper procedure can leave you with warped, leaking, or otherwise-deformed parts. Also, you'll want to put some permatex on those gaskets.
What valve covers are you looking to get ? With most aftermarket ones you may need a new breather cap. Also some stock valve covers have the spark plug wire loom attached to them, so you may need some aftermarket looms to keep the wires in line. Good luck with the project and post some pics of the new covers in your gallery when your done if you are able.
it's not a tuff job clean all your gasket serfaces. If you look at your covers you will see that the bolt hole are pulled in take a ballpenn hammer and tap these flat again then use
quarter inch rachet to tighten the bolts they only get like 12lbs of touque. If you tighten them to much the cover will bend and cut the gasket
Find the exact torque specs for your heads. I just recently broke the bolt ( I was in a rush and didn't use torque wrench) and then broke the extractor in the head. Needless to say there both still in there and I have a leak.
I don't use permatex and I don't torque. Just snug the bolts down lightly. If it leaks a little, snug down a little more. Start in the middle of the cover and cross back and forth, going in both directions until you got 'em all. Ball peen hammer is good for flattening the surfaces of the old cover, with a flat surface below(if you do use the old ones). Of course new shiny crome valve covers will be straight.
The reason I dont use permatex is that it is more work the next time I have to pull them off. I don't use permatex on anything except cooling system gaskets ie. water pump etc. For oil type gaskets, you shouldn't need permatex, as long as the surfaces are flat and clean.
Find the exact torque specs for your heads. I just recently broke the bolt ( I was in a rush and didn't use torque wrench) and then broke the extractor in the head. Needless to say there both still in there and I have a leak.
Coda, I think you are talking about "head bolt" aren't you? I believe Mike was refering to changing his valve covers and gaskets.
thanks to all , gonna order new ones and give it the old college try.gonna go with new chrome and rubber gaskets and a new chrome air cleaner while im ordering thanks again