I have a 1999 Extended Cab 5.4 with 4WD. My Upper Arm Bolts and Nuts do not have an adjustment cam! I bought Moog Upper Arm with bushing and ball joint. done!

The C-Clamp I rented is useless on the upper and lower ball joint when 4WD! The C-Clamp they gave me seemed like it was for Tank Ball Joint Replacment! I hammered both and they came apart, however, how the hell do you take the lower ball joint out without removing the drive axle? If I have to remove that to get at the retaining clip, no one on the previous posts mentioned that.

Please, if anyone has a 4wd 1999 and would give me how they removed the lower ball joints after installation of the upper arm, I would appreciate it. I just don't want to re-invent the wheel here? I do not mind work, just would like to know exactly the correct procedures whatever they are!

Also, the Moog ball joint nuts are not the same size as the OEM. I had to buy a 27MM socket for them. My torque wrench is only a 3/8' drive so I am guessing as I tighten the nuts.

Please do not answer this post if you haven't done a 4WD in the 1999 range. Thank you.

 

Okay,I don't quite understand what the problem is.Your right the press won't work on the factory uppers,as they're made into the arm.Not sure how you were told to do this job,but apparently it wasn't right.Here's how I do them.Remove caliper,rotor,axle nut, unplug wire from wheel sensor.Remove upper pinch bolt and seperate from UBJ,remove lower BJ nut,tilt knuckle outwards so the axle wiil clear and remove from truck.move axle out of the way (towards the front of truck)wire it to the sway-bar,remove snap ring from balljoint and press it out from the top.

 

Like SRD4X4 said you have to remove the knuckle from the truck so you have room to replace the lower ball joint.
When you take your truck for an alignment after you're all done they will most likely want to install a cam adjuster kit for the upper control arms. You might save yourself a few bucks by doing that now. The alignment can be done without it but it's a lot harder.

 

Thank you Racerguy and SRD4x4 for the good advice.

Here is what I did and how I did it right or wrong

1. I took the bolts off the upper control arm
2. I took of upper ball joint nut and hammered out
3. Took arm off
4. Moved to disc brake/rotor and removed and hung with wire
5. Removed front outside tierod and moved away
6. Removed cotter pin, cover, and 13/8" Nut off shaft
7. Removed cotter pin and nut from lower ball joint and broke it free
8. Pulled spindle/shaft out (carefully) and hung spindle away
9. After I figured out how to use the press clamp it was too late, I was careful
hammering on lower ball joint getting it flush with the spindle knuckle. I then got a
large socket smaller than the opening and placed it on the ball joint head. One
whack and it was out
10. Pressed in the Moog, lifted the spindle back and inserted into the upper while
holding the lower and screwing nuts on for starters. Moved jack closer to lower
ball joint and jacked up giving me more thread on upper. My torque wrench only
has a 3/8's drive so I guessed at torque of nuts and put cotter pin in.
11. Just reversed the steps above and I think everything secure except
12. Upper control arm bolts still a little loose as no adjuster cam against the side, just
a bolt and nut. I will leave loose, lower truck when both are done and try to get
in and torque them as the truck settles.
I am also replacing my idler arm then taking it to the dealer who will do an alignment.

My problem was no one said that I had to remove the spindle, the parts guy said I could use the press to remove the ball joints, however, no one mentioned removing the spindle, shaft, brakes etc to get at it.

I will tackle the right side tomorrow after work and hope this side goes faster.

Before I got your messages, I called a local ford mechanic who told me exactly what to do. I did not take off shaft bolts, just pulled the spindle off and made sure no dirt. I greased it putting it back on.

 

Gentlemen: Second Side went much faster after your advice and doing the first side last night. I made one mistake when I took off the joint from the Idler Arm for the steering. I used a small ball joint separator but forgot to take the nut off when I was forcing it out. After it broke, I tried to screw the nut off and the whole ball joint was turning. I learned some new cuss words for my mistake of not taking that nut off. After about 35 minutes I decided to try out my new 10,000RPM right angle grinder. The sparks were flying but cut it right off in about 2-3 minutes. After I finished, put the tires on and lowered the truck to let the upper arms find themselves and torqued them.

Will be taking to Ford Dealer for $45.95 alignment now.

Now I am worried about the oil/power steerling all over my hoses under the front end.

At 183,000 miles, I don't mind replacing parts now. I become attached to this truck now.

 

Good to hear that you got it done
Can you tell where the oil is coming from?
The power steering pumps on these do leak sometimes.

 

Does feel good to get this job done. I drove it down the street and the
whole front end feels "brandnew" tight. Can't wait to get it aligned

I hope it is just the power steering hose or oil hose leak. I don't want to
change the power steering pump too? However, I hate any type of leaks. I
will ask the mechanic doing the alignment to check it out. If the PS Pump,
I know what I will be doing Sunday???

I was reading my Hayes book tonight and noticed that the heater hose is
inside the manifold. I hope that never leaks???

Anyway, I guess I just have to wait for the next project. At 183,000, something is bound to pop up, pop out, pop in, or fall off??

 

i just finished doing lowerv ball joints on my 97 alingment shop said all was good as new when done no adjustment needed. just disconected the sway bar took axel out not hard just six bolts on inside one on outside separated lower ball joint pressed out old pressed in new jacked it back into place. could almost do it with out taking the tire off

 

Read your posts pretty informative. I've got a 98 AWD explorer, front end is totally loose. Replacing upper/lower control arms, come with ball joint and bushings, shocks, sway bar bushing bolts and outer steering rod ends on drivers and passengers sides. Started on pass side. Removed brake caliper,(hung on frame out of the way) removed shock, removed old upper arm and installed new one, have not torqued yet. Removed nut from lower ball joint, tried for a long time to drop lower control arm and remove it. No luck. the big long rod that connects to the lower control arm from around behind the transmission but on the pass side of transmission keeps pulling the inside of the control arm up. What exactly is that rod for anyway.Is doesn't turn or anything it just slides in the arm. What purpose does it serve?

I could really use some good advice. Was hoping to do both sides this weekend. Need the truck for work.

Help please!
Korie

 

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Hi Korie,

The big long rod that you're talking about is the torsion bar. It is the suspension's spring. Rather than a leaf or coil spring these use a torsion bar instead.
If you can return the lower control arms and and just get ball joints instead I would really recommend that as it makes the job much easier. Usually the parts store that sells you the ball joints will have a ball joint press that you can borrow or rent.
For some more instructions take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=364301 . It's for an F-150 but it's pretty much the same.