Howdy all. I am grateful for this forum and thank you in advance. I will start with what the engine is and what it's doing and then explain what I've done to this point. It’s going to be a little long, but better to get it out all at once. I have a 69 SWB F100. It’s engine has a casting code of C80E-6015 9A27, which I'm pretty sure means that it's a 302 casting from a 68 pattern that was produced 27 Jan of 69. It’s a 3 speed automatic (a conversion from 6 cylinders and 3 on the tree). Manual steering & brakes. Everything is original except for the engine and tranny so I will stick with just those. The tranny is a C4 I’m pretty sure. The 302 has headers, an edelbrock performer intake, a Holley 600 cmf #80457 4 barrel and what I think is an SSI system and I think it has a non-stock cam. I bought it about 3 weeks ago. It would crank at the touch of the key. However, it would sputter and back fire when any form of acceleration was applied. The backfire would occur through the carb and at times through the exhaust. I towed it home and it would crank easily until a week ago. I had driven it around my yard (3 acres) just idling and a little acceleration in an attempt to identify the problem. Nothing over 10 mph. One day last week I tried to start it just for this and giggles to hear it run and think of what the problem could be. It would not start so I left it alone. The next day was the same. It would turn over and sound like it was hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders. Almost like it had jumped time. Never starting. Since then I have changed the fuel in the tank and lines, checked all 3 of the vacuum lines (Distrib, Tranny, & PVC), changed distrib cap, rotor, stator, coil, and pack on the firewall, Checked the diaphragm in the vac advance, got the #1 piston up on the compression stroke to check the alignment of the dizzy(?) with stator and the rotor cap, tested all the spark plug wires for solid fire, Checked the plugs. Attempted to adjust the timing by ear. After all this I still have the same hit and miss I started with. The plugs are covered with black sut(?) when I check them. The person I bought it from doesn’t know a thing about the motor. It sat in his backyard for about 6 months and was running when his son parked it. This is where I am. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'd check the dizzy timing again, remove the passenger side valve cover, watch the #1 intake valve open/close and then bring the 10 degree-BTDC timing mark to the pointer. Adjust the dizzy until it lines up with the #1 plug wire. This should be a good starting point, most older Ford smallblocks had 8-10 degree's BTDC of initial timing. The dizzy may be out 180 degree's too, the engine would run - but pretty crappy. It needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke.....You likely already know all this stuff but I like to start with the simple stuff first. Did you replace the condensor in the dizzy?...Did you check out the carb settings?

 

I will check the timing mark. Something I did'nt do. Also, only 4 & 8 are showing gas on the plug the rest are ****. I dumped 1/4 cup of gas in the carb and it ~ran~ but like you said "like crap". Thanks, will try what you suggest.

 

What I was calling a dizzy earlier is really called the Armature. I did what you recommended. Checked the carb and the BTDC and they were fine. Still running on #7 cylinder only. Losing hair! Going to check the pri and sec wiring again. Any other thoughts?

 

What kind of carb is on the engine?....Maybe the carb is toast. When it's running is it only firing on #7?...Did you check the firing order to make sure it's in the right direction on the cap? If you have fuel and spark it should run. Have you done a leakdown or compression test? Are there any vacuum leaks?

 

Got rid of all the SSI components and replace distrib with a single point type distrib from an old 302 I have torn down. Put a Pertronix ignition in it and it started right up! Wow what a product! Easy to install and not expensive. Am still having some trouble with the carb and am rebuliding Carb now. Thanks folks.