My 88 2wdr dually automatic with a 7.3 has seemed to have lost power and is blowing a lot of black smoke?
Its seems to be getting worse ever day.
Any ideas?

 

when was the last time you checked the air filter? Do you have an aftermarket turbo system installed? Has anyone tried to adjust the fuel? How many miles on the engine/fuel system? Many avenues to investigate for the right answer. Maybe some diesel conditioner may help.

 

Air filter looks OK.
I use conditioner regularly.
No turbo.
No ones messed with the fuel.
I changed the fuel filter.
180.000 miles

 

Some causes of black smoke:

Air in injector pump
Restricted return lines
IP timing too far advanced usually with loud combustion noise
Excessive fuel delivery due to weak injectors
Low fuel pump pressure
Clogged air inlet
Missing pre chamber black smoke when hot white smoke when cold
Restricted exhaust

Try pushing the bottom of the advance lever in when idleing, that is the lever on the drivers side. You should see white smoke and stumbling until released.

Here is info from another site just days ago......may or may not be your problem.


I've been battling exhaust smoke on a 94 E350 IDI since I bought it about 2 months ago. I initially assumed it was fuel injectors, so I installed a new set of Stanadynes with little change.

I was suspecting that there was a timing problem. Since the IP is buried in the van, I walked over to my 6.9L pickup, and noticed that there is a mechanical advance lever. Walked over to my van, stuck my wand light in to locate the arm, and popped a screwdriver behind it to pry it out. NO MORE SMOKE!!!! The lever fulcrum pin must have corroded a little, and the advance lever was stuck at FULL ADVANCE, causing my smoke.

Im elated that I found the problem, a little disappointed that I hadn't found it before replacing all the injectors and having the truck down for 2 weeks waiting on them (I can tell you who NOT to buy injectors from on EBay).

So check that advance arm to make sure it moves when you work the "throttle".

 

What do you mean by the advance lever?

 

I think I have air problems because it starts then quits sometimes.
Ive looked and tightened everything i can think of .
Im about ready to drive it out in the middle of a field and throw a match at it.
Its something new everyday.
It looks great but looks are decieving.

 

Sorry to sound dumb but I still dont know what you are refering to as the advance lever?

 

When you push the fuel lever toward the back the long lever in the picture on the opposite side will move in at the bottom, you can simulate that with engine running by by just pushing the bottom in and getting the desired response.

 

vinford, you say it starts and dies. is this a cold problem, or all the time?

 

Cold problem.
First thing in the morning.
Once aday.

 

In europe we drive a lot of diesels, black smoke can be caused by lack of air, to many diesel being injected, or OIL. If a diesel starts to smoke be sure to check your oil-level on a regular base.

 

Is it hard starting? Could be glow plugs. I would check all the glow plugs, check the injectors, and do a compression test.

Blue smoke would indicate engine oil being burned, not black.

 

i bet the fuel bypass is still hooked up on the fuel filter. you will see a line coming from the fuel injector return lines to the top of the fuel filter housing. disconnect it, plug the filter housing tap, and plug the line. should solve the start and die when cold problem.

 

I had the same problem with my 93 Ford with it not starting each day. I found that the drain on the bottom of the fuel filter was dripping enough overnight that it caused air in the system. Once tightened, I have not had any problems.

 

Vinford check out http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi2.htm there is tons of info on there ..may have to cut and paste it. Sure sounds like air related for the start check the fuel pump pressure and quantity..

Do pressure and flow test on the fuel at the Schrader valve on the filter(FSS- fuel shutoff switch disconnected). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.

If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation proceedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.