Im stumped...2.3 won't start
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Im stumped...2.3 won't start
my 92 2.3 5spd ranger has recently gone on strike I can't figure out why it wont start
I changed starter and battery, it has spark, checked fuel pump switch (passenger side cut-off switch) plenty of gas...
the engine sounds like it want's to turn over, but for some reason cant...
is there any way to check codes in my driveway, or do I have to tow it to a shop
I know without codes, It's a shot in the dark, but is there anyone who had a similar experience who can lend a bit of advise?
thx--Matt
I changed starter and battery, it has spark, checked fuel pump switch (passenger side cut-off switch) plenty of gas...
the engine sounds like it want's to turn over, but for some reason cant...
is there any way to check codes in my driveway, or do I have to tow it to a shop
I know without codes, It's a shot in the dark, but is there anyone who had a similar experience who can lend a bit of advise?
thx--Matt
Last edited by biggreen78; Mar 28, 2005 at 09:04 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Virginia
You can get a code scanner for less than $50. You also may want to get a pressure tester. One that you can test the fuel pressure with.
Does your truck have the 2 fuel pump system like the older Rangers do? If so can you hear both of them cycle on when you KO. If no, check the relays and that inertia switch on the pass floor. They do go bad on occasion. Unplug it and jump it with a piece of wire to see if it activates the pumps. If they were already on then go to the next likely suspect, an old fuel filter that is clogged. They are cheap and easy to replace. Now check the fuel pressure again and pull the plugs to inspect and test for spark. Crank the engine while you have one near the engine ground. (be careful here) Then check the other cheap parts like wires, cap -n- rotor, coil(s), etc.....
Oh yea, and why did it stop running. What happened? Sometimes mine will suck up air in the pump when it is low on fuel and it is a HUGE PITA to get it started again to work the air out.
Does your truck have the 2 fuel pump system like the older Rangers do? If so can you hear both of them cycle on when you KO. If no, check the relays and that inertia switch on the pass floor. They do go bad on occasion. Unplug it and jump it with a piece of wire to see if it activates the pumps. If they were already on then go to the next likely suspect, an old fuel filter that is clogged. They are cheap and easy to replace. Now check the fuel pressure again and pull the plugs to inspect and test for spark. Crank the engine while you have one near the engine ground. (be careful here) Then check the other cheap parts like wires, cap -n- rotor, coil(s), etc.....
Oh yea, and why did it stop running. What happened? Sometimes mine will suck up air in the pump when it is low on fuel and it is a HUGE PITA to get it started again to work the air out.
Posting Guru
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If the engine is not turning over, then it is too early to check for fuel pressure. It will not start untill it turns over, so you can have a bad/low battery or cables. Does the starter click like it is being triggered? Does the started turn?
Dave
Dave
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From: suburban atlanta
You can check codes on an EEC-IV system (pre-96) with an ohm meter and a jumper wire. Directions somewhere on the web...
You can get a code reader specific to FoMoCO for about $30 along with a decoder book that tells what each code means.
You can also check that the belt hasn't jumped time by putting the engine at TDC, checking the dist rotor position and the cam pointer position behind the black plastic plug in the cam belt cover. If you have EDIS (no dist) then I can't tell you how to check timing, as it is all 'computed' based on crank and cam position sensors.
You can poke the center of the schrader (valve stem) fitting on the injector fuel rail to see if you have pressure. MAKE SURE you don't smoke.. all other fire warnings apply as fuel may spurt out.
Look also for stuff you may have knocked out of position when you did the battery and starter...
tom
You can get a code reader specific to FoMoCO for about $30 along with a decoder book that tells what each code means.
You can also check that the belt hasn't jumped time by putting the engine at TDC, checking the dist rotor position and the cam pointer position behind the black plastic plug in the cam belt cover. If you have EDIS (no dist) then I can't tell you how to check timing, as it is all 'computed' based on crank and cam position sensors.
You can poke the center of the schrader (valve stem) fitting on the injector fuel rail to see if you have pressure. MAKE SURE you don't smoke.. all other fire warnings apply as fuel may spurt out.
Look also for stuff you may have knocked out of position when you did the battery and starter...
tom
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Its looks like we need a little clearer understanding of what is happening. So, does the engine not rotate (turn over) when you hit the starter. Or does it rotate and does not fire? I looked at the post again and am not sure what it is doing.
Dave
Dave
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sorry, when I first tried to start it (sat in drive for 1-1 1/2 mo) would not rotate, it tried but did not
I replaced selenoid (by batt) and battery (original had a dead cell but would still not start when I tried to jump it) then when I turned the key, I smelled burning and there was smoke coming from starter....I replaced it and it is still doing the same thing as when I first tried--not rotating
I was told to pull distributor cap as moisture can collect there, but I dont know where that is...there are 8 spark plugs connected to two seperate "cap" type thingys not the usual cap type configuration I'm used to seeing. Im sure u guys know what I'm talking bout. hope this helps....
I replaced selenoid (by batt) and battery (original had a dead cell but would still not start when I tried to jump it) then when I turned the key, I smelled burning and there was smoke coming from starter....I replaced it and it is still doing the same thing as when I first tried--not rotating
I was told to pull distributor cap as moisture can collect there, but I dont know where that is...there are 8 spark plugs connected to two seperate "cap" type thingys not the usual cap type configuration I'm used to seeing. Im sure u guys know what I'm talking bout. hope this helps....
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Posting Guru
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There is a mechinical reason it is not turning over. Something seems to be stuck, try rocking the truck in gear and see if the motor is free. Don't worry about sensors, electronics, etc untill you can get the motor to turnover (rotate) with the starter.
Dave
Dave
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I don't know if this will help but...
I had a similar problem with my lawnmower this weekend. It had sat unused for 3 months and when I turned the key the same thing happened.
Battery is fully charged, fuel system was good, I could hear everything click (relays, etc.) but it would not turn over. Since I could see the main flywheel from the top of the mower I could tell that it wanted to rotate, but just couldn't.
It turns out that the starter cog teeth had bound with the flywheel teeth when I first tried to start it. All I had to do was tap the starter cog hard enough to get it to drop back into ready position. I went back, turned the key, and it started right up.
quote..."there are 8 spark plugs connected to two seperate "cap" type thingys not the usual cap type configuration I'm used to seeing. Im sure u guys know what I'm talking bout."
Those are your coils. They've taken over the function of the old distributors.
Good luck.
I had a similar problem with my lawnmower this weekend. It had sat unused for 3 months and when I turned the key the same thing happened.
Battery is fully charged, fuel system was good, I could hear everything click (relays, etc.) but it would not turn over. Since I could see the main flywheel from the top of the mower I could tell that it wanted to rotate, but just couldn't.
It turns out that the starter cog teeth had bound with the flywheel teeth when I first tried to start it. All I had to do was tap the starter cog hard enough to get it to drop back into ready position. I went back, turned the key, and it started right up.
quote..."there are 8 spark plugs connected to two seperate "cap" type thingys not the usual cap type configuration I'm used to seeing. Im sure u guys know what I'm talking bout."
Those are your coils. They've taken over the function of the old distributors.
Good luck.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Have you checked for corrosion on the battery cables and wires to the starter? I know it rather obvious but you did not mention doing this.
If the starter was smoking it is either a mechanical issue as stated above or it something is shorting out. Any chance there is a bare wire hitting a ground or is it possbile you may have forgotten to reconnect a wire when swapping out the parts you mentioned in your initial post. You may have a hot wire laying on the frame.
I am pretty sure (like 99.99%) you do not have a fuel or ignition problem. If your truck is a manual transmission, try push starting it (after dark of course when the neighbors aren't looking).
If the starter was smoking it is either a mechanical issue as stated above or it something is shorting out. Any chance there is a bare wire hitting a ground or is it possbile you may have forgotten to reconnect a wire when swapping out the parts you mentioned in your initial post. You may have a hot wire laying on the frame.
I am pretty sure (like 99.99%) you do not have a fuel or ignition problem. If your truck is a manual transmission, try push starting it (after dark of course when the neighbors aren't looking).
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you can pull the codes with a DVOM using these instructions
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...9x/EECIVQT.pdf
your engine doesnt have a distributor, it is DIS (Distributorless Igninion System).
to check timing, all you have to do is line up the little notch on the Crank pulley to TC or TDC on the timing cover. when those are lined up pull the rubber plug out of the timing cover and you will see the camshaft gear and a marker under it. if the engine is in time, the triangle on the cam gear will line up with the marker.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...9x/EECIVQT.pdf
your engine doesnt have a distributor, it is DIS (Distributorless Igninion System).
to check timing, all you have to do is line up the little notch on the Crank pulley to TC or TDC on the timing cover. when those are lined up pull the rubber plug out of the timing cover and you will see the camshaft gear and a marker under it. if the engine is in time, the triangle on the cam gear will line up with the marker.
Logistics Pro
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From: suburban atlanta
Try to rotate the engine by hand using the crankshaft pulley. You should be able to rotate it a little bit, at least. If not, get a crankshaft-bolt-sized socket, and a breaker bar and use them to break free the engine. If you can't rotate it using the breaker bar, then you have a bigger problem. I'd pull one plug from each cylinder, (pass side easier) and try to rotate again. Either rust or coolant leaked into the cylinders could be stopping the engine from turning.
'k?
tom
'k?
tom
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we tried a push start, but with no results....I'm starting to wonder if the engine has seized
I was underthe hood last night, praying for a miracle and now when I turn the key there is nuthin but a click (or two, cant remember) prolly fuel pump, and then silent buzzing noise
I was underthe hood last night, praying for a miracle and now when I turn the key there is nuthin but a click (or two, cant remember) prolly fuel pump, and then silent buzzing noise
Last edited by biggreen78; Mar 29, 2005 at 09:17 AM.