I was just skimmin through some of the posts and thought what it there was a way to put dual coilsprings on the back end of a truck instead of leafsprings.

One i thought would look cool but if you could get two maybe like fabricate them so they could go side by side or do like a spring on each side of the frame rail so there on opposite sides of the frame rails.

Would this be possible.

 

It would be possible. It would also be overkill and make for a rougher ride and less articulation if you plan to use the truck offroad. A single coil spring per corner is plenty as long as you're not hauling heavy loads. Then you have to design some sort of link system to keep the axle in place.

 

While you are talking flex, the closer to the axle center you put them, the more leverage you get at the tire. Of course, it will serve to decrease stability too. I am considering stock parts. I was looking at front radius arms, but use tubing to extend them 18-24" and put either control arm bushings or johnny joints on them. Of course, this is a LONNGG way off, but still, I lay awake at night thinking of this stuff

 

My issue with using radius arms in back is it still limits articulation a fair amount (same reason I don't like them in the front). Typically they also cost ground clearance because you're using drop brackets for them and they tend to get caught up on junk. I've seen one truck that was done with radius arms and coils in the rear but he was only using it in sand where there was nothing to catch them on.

Good point about stability. If you use the truck on the street at all you really want those springs out as far as they can go.

 

I wonder if it would be practical to use a ladder bar setup to "locate" the axle in reference to the frame. Wouldn't that save the work of figuring out the geometry of a four link, not to mention the cost?

 

You can use ladder bars as long as you also use a trac bar. I've seen it done before and it's basically what they refer to as a 3 link. My issue with this, and maybe this doesn't bother some people, is that you have the entire force of the rear axle on 2 joints, where the ladder bars meet the frame. Personally I don't trust this if you drive it hard. But like I said this is more a personal preference. You don't save a whole lot of money really, you'll save 2 heims on the ladder bars but still need them for the trac bar.

 

Good point Ivan, but I was thinking that ladder bars may be easier since they are currently made for our trucks. Whereas, a four link you would have to figure out the geometry (I checked in to it a little) to make it work right.
I wonder if you could just rip off a coil spring/trailing arm set off of the old generic motors trucks.

 

hmmm this turned out to fasinate me but i'm not even gonna consider something like this just a thought. Yeah this would definetly get to be overkill with two per side. It's got me lookin at how 4-links are set up. but i think i'll stick with leaf springs

 

I will say this much. If you want to use ladder bars as part of a 3 link design DO NOT try using any of the aftermarket junk made for these trucks. They will not not not support it and your rear axle will depart without the rest of the truck. You have to remember that these ladder bars are actually traction bars and all they're designed to do is keep the rear axle from twisting when you accelerate. They're not built heavy enough to support the placement of the axle and most do not even have adequate mounting hardware to make this work. A lot of times it's a simple clamp that holds them on there. If you were to go this route you'd definitely want to fabricate your own or have them fabricated by someone who knew what they're doing. Make sure the tubing walls are thick enough and use at least a 1" heim joint at each end (1 at the frame, 2 at the axle . . . an upper and lower). There's just no cheap way around it and this isn't a place you want to skimp.