I have 1986 f-150 302 EFI. The engine will turnover, but will not start. There is fire from the plugs. I suspect a fuel problem. Engine will run momentarily if I use some starter fluid. When the key is turned on, the main fuel pump runs for about 2 sec. then stops. This truck has 4-wheel drive and I was driving on some rough roads recently which caused my radio to become dislodged. The radio fell back into the dash and shorted out the fuse to the dome light, cargo light, and clock. Could the radio have caused a short in any my fuel components? Thank for any information concerning my problem.

Thank you,
Joel

 

Sounds like you may have a bad low pressure in tank pump, that is not feeding the large pump. How many gas tanks do you have? 1 or 2.

 

I have 2 tanks on my truck. My truck uses a dual function resevior to control flow of fuel from the either tank. I have removed it to see if I can get fuel out of either tank. I am unable to get fuel out of either tank. It appears that I have lost power to both low pressure pumps; however, I have power to my high pressure pump. I have hotwired the fuel pumps using the diagnostic link connector and only the high pressure pump runs.
By the way, my fuel gauge will work when I switch to the front tank, but the gauge will not work when I switch to rear tank.

I hope this additional information will help.

Joel

 

That shock that knocked your radio out of the dash probably tripped the inertial fuel sutoff switch if the fuel pumps quit running at the same time.

The reset switch should be somewhere around the driver's side kick panel, I'm guessing.

The shutoff switch is there to prevent the fuel pump from running after an accident.

Steve

 

have you found the malfunction yet.I have an '89 E150 2X4 van with similar problem.My wife went to sonic to get a soda.Everything OK untill pulling onto main st.No big bump or anything like that; IT JUST DIED. The high PSI fuel pump is working.The van will start using ether,it just won't keep running on it's own. The inertia switch is not tripped. By the way,in my '89 E150,the inertia switch is on the passenger side,behind the kick panel , on the inside wall. I also have dual tanks . I just can't picture both low PSI fuel pumps going out at the same time.

 

We are currently working on our problem and installed a jumper under hood that will cause the pumps to continuesly run, activiting the high pressure pump and the low pressure pumps in the tanks.
This jumper is installed under the hood using the diagnostic link connector which is red and located on top of the passenger side fender trapezoid shape. With the flatside of the connector turned down, insert one end of the jumper in the bottom right hole and ground the other end of the jumper to your negative battery post. Then turn the key to 'on' position.
This will initate a constant run. Do not let it run continously. Quickly check then turn key off. This supplies power to your high press. pump and both low press. pumps thru the tank selection switch which operates each tank pump for the tank that is in demand.
There is a six port dual fuel resevior mounted on the chasis on our pickup. Installed between the high press. pump and low press. pumps. It contains a fuel filter inside of it. An oil filter wrench will screw the bottom of it off. The filter is replaceable for approx. $6. The ford dealer here stated that it does not contain a filter, but it does as per Haynes repair manual. We chose to replace the entire unit.
Currently, we have found the rear tank pump is bad. It appears that for some reason the front tank is also bad. We will advise you.
It may be that some type of power surge or glitch has caused the problem. We are not sure yet.
The grounding circuit "which you have accomplished with the jumper is also made thru EEC (engine control module)." This could be our eventual problem.
You can throw at lot of money at this problem. Take your time. The same power wire that supplies the primary high press. pump also supplies power thru the tank selection switch for each low press. pump. Check for power on each pump making sure that the switch is in its position for the low press. pump you are checking. Just because you have power to the pump motor doesn't mean the motor is good. You will need to see if the low press. pump circuit is open (which means it won't run) by grounding the ground wire (should be a black or orange wire going back to the either tank). If you have power to that pump and it will not run, it probably is bad.
We will keep you posted of our progress. Please do the same.

 

In reference to our previous note.
As you know we had the identical problem that you (keeper) had and our solution which may not necessarily be yours was as follows.
We had power on the rear tank pump terminals but the pump would not run. This was determined after removing the tank. Further diagnostics showed that there was no current flow thru the pump (circuit was open). After installing a new pump in the rear tank and for some unknown reason, the front tank became active again. It's my opinion, which is not necessarily fact, is that the open circuit thru the rear tank pump motor was preventing the ground loop from being completed for the front tank.
Please let us hear from you on the solution to your problem.

 

Thank you so much.I was at the end of my passive point and decided to just let the darn thing sit in the driveway and laugh at me. I will be off thu. & fri. Weather permitting,thanx to you,I have a place to start looking again. I'll let everyone know my results soon.Thanks again.I just can't stand to take something to a shop that I can do myself,even if I do have to have a pointer or tow.thanx badgerskeeper!