replacing front shocks
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Joined: Jan 2005
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replacing front shocks
!999 2wd Ranger 3.0
I like to browse my chiltons before doing any work no matter how mondane. Not being what they used to be, My book doesn't have my suspension in it. Shocks inside the coils. Will someone step me through so I don't waste any time? Thanks!
I like to browse my chiltons before doing any work no matter how mondane. Not being what they used to be, My book doesn't have my suspension in it. Shocks inside the coils. Will someone step me through so I don't waste any time? Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
I haven't dont that year before, but really, it should just be a few fasteners on the top and bottom of the shock. Before starting, look to see if there will be room to lower the shock and install the new one. If not, drive the side of the vehicle you are working on up on a ramp, or use a floor jack to raise it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
On a 94 4x4, the rear shocks are held on via a stud and a nut on each end of the shock; the stud is c/t (common to) the chassis. No jacking required.
On the front, the lower end of the shock is held on via a stud c/t the chassis and the upper portion of the shock is threaded, has rubber bumpers, steel washers, and a nut to secure everything. No jacking required.
Both are very simple to change and the process will be very obvious when you take a look. Have some metric tools around for the back for sure; can't remember on the studs on the fronts. I think the nut on the front was a 9/16.
On the front, the lower end of the shock is held on via a stud c/t the chassis and the upper portion of the shock is threaded, has rubber bumpers, steel washers, and a nut to secure everything. No jacking required.
Both are very simple to change and the process will be very obvious when you take a look. Have some metric tools around for the back for sure; can't remember on the studs on the fronts. I think the nut on the front was a 9/16.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
Spray the bolts ahead of time with liquid wrench, etc, breaking those stud off is very common.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
On a 94 4x4, the rear shocks are held on via a stud and a nut on each end of the shock; the stud is c/t (common to) the chassis. No jacking required.
On the front, the lower end of the shock is held on via a stud c/t the chassis and the upper portion of the shock is threaded, has rubber bumpers, steel washers, and a nut to secure everything. No jacking required.
Both are very simple to change and the process will be very obvious when you take a look. Have some metric tools around for the back for sure; can't remember on the studs on the fronts. I think the nut on the front was a 9/16.
On the front, the lower end of the shock is held on via a stud c/t the chassis and the upper portion of the shock is threaded, has rubber bumpers, steel washers, and a nut to secure everything. No jacking required.
Both are very simple to change and the process will be very obvious when you take a look. Have some metric tools around for the back for sure; can't remember on the studs on the fronts. I think the nut on the front was a 9/16.
Correction - the lower end of the rear shock is held on with a nut/bolt.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,777
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From: Perry,Ga.
Cowboy is right.you don't need to jack up the truck on the 94,but if you replace the shocks with gas shocks,then you realy have to push hard to compress them to get them on.Jack the truck up useing the fram{DONT FORGET TO USE JACKSTANDS} and let the axle drop on the side your changing,then you dont have to push the shock up as far to get it on.JMO
