maybe im wrong
need feedback on Badger pistons
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Springdale, AR
need feedback on Badger pistons
I am currently in the process of building a 400 ( stock 2bbl heads with pocket porting). I would like to know from those who have used the Badger pistons what octane fuel I can expect to need, as well as any other pertinent and useful advice. The engine is bored .040, decked to square the block ( I don't know how much the machine shop has had to take off). I also will have the heads milled as necessary, but plan to polish the chambers and use ceramic coating on the chamber, valve faces, and piston tops to reduce detonation. I assume the C.R. with these pistons starts at 9:1 and climbs as bore and milling increases, so I'll be upwards of 9:1 with the work I've described. I'm still deciding between the Comp XE262H and the XE268H. This engine will be installed in a 79 F150 4x4 with 31" tires,3.50 gears, and an NP435 trans that sees limited offroading, mostly street time. Other mods are headers, Performer manifold, and a Holley spreadbore 650. I probably will use a stock distributer so recurve advice will help.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 27
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From: Kennett, MO 63857
I have the same setup on my 400. Using the standard 2v ford heads, my CR ended up around 9.5 to 1. It runs fine on 87 octane. Sometimes on really hot days it pings a little while pulling a trailer. However, this summer I am going to mess with the timming alittle and see about stopping the ping. It still doesn't ping as much as the stock 351m did. If you have any more questions let me know I'll tell you what I can.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 867
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From: Eastern Pa
Well you really need the deck clearance and head cc info to figure it all out. The Badgers have 5cc reliefs. I have them in my .040 over with 82cc head chambers but I did no block decking so my clearance was about .075. The stock clearance is .065 and the badgers are .010 shorter. Use this calculator and you can play with the various combos to see where you would stand. I did polish my chambers but no ceramic. I get some pinging on 87 running about 10 degrees initial and I get it all in by 2500rpm. I now run 89 and am ok.http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?act...8a4c4f13feafcd
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Kennett, MO 63857
According to the research I've done the 410 with stock heads can only flow about 610cfm under perfect conditions. Therefore I'm using a Holly 600cfm with vacum secondaries. I did as little machining to head and block as I could get away with. My initial timming is set at 12 bdc. I to am using my truck for more of a street machine than anything else. I trying to strike a line between performance and gas mileage. I hope to tune the carb and set the timming to get between 15 and 17mpg. I've talked to others who have acheived these results. The Proformer manifold, Holly 600cfm carb, MSD 6AL ingnition, Superblaster Coil, and Mallory unilite Dizzy should help everything come together. I Hope!!! I only have around 150 miles on the new motor, C6, and limited slip rearend. We'll see how things go when all these new parts get a chance to loosen up.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Springdale, AR
As I understand it, the ceramic coat allows you to run a little less initial timing and a slightly leaner fuel mixture. It holds more heat in the combustion but reflects the heat from whatever is coated(the parts run cooler). HOT ROD June, 2004 issue has a complete article. It is not very expensive, either, with a 3 oz. bottle costing $32. and is enough do do a V-8.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Kennett, MO 63857
smoove_d, did you apply the coating yourself for did the machine shop do it? Is this something I could do myself? Would it reduce the cc's of my head enough to raise the c/r ?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springdale, AR
http://www.techlinecoatings.com
Check this link out. It has the products and instructions to do it yourself. It seems pretty straightforward;the pistons must be clean, the coating is mixed with water and sprayed on with an airbrush or touch-up gun. Then after air drying, they must be baked in your oven. Final step is to burnish with steel wool or scotchbrite or to bead blast them. The HOT ROD article did a side-by-side comparison of uncoated vs coated pistons heated with a rosebud in which the coated piston far outlasted the uncoated before burning through(I think 90 seconds), with a much larger area of failure as if the metal beneath the coating eventually "dropped out".
Check this link out. It has the products and instructions to do it yourself. It seems pretty straightforward;the pistons must be clean, the coating is mixed with water and sprayed on with an airbrush or touch-up gun. Then after air drying, they must be baked in your oven. Final step is to burnish with steel wool or scotchbrite or to bead blast them. The HOT ROD article did a side-by-side comparison of uncoated vs coated pistons heated with a rosebud in which the coated piston far outlasted the uncoated before burning through(I think 90 seconds), with a much larger area of failure as if the metal beneath the coating eventually "dropped out".
