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Yes. Others have done it. Block off the old pump site with a cover plate. It seems like someone wrote how they modified a BB chebby cover for the block. Don't remember what the preferred elect pumps are. Use diesel rated hose and wire accordingly--- Fused, switched elect source.
If you run a search or two you will find numerous threads containing info to help you in more detail.
I need to do it too.
what is your reason for bypassing the mechanical pump?? is it because it bleeds back over night draining the fuel filter??? or did the pump go bad and the truck will no longer run?
Hi, no reason for doing it I am looking at buying a 1990 F350 and if I get it it might need a new lift pump just curious if it could be done.
Thanks, Jeremy
the reason i asked is that most people will replace the lift pump as being bad if the truck cold starts then dies and will not restart till it cranks a while because the fuel filter back drains through the pump. 99 percent of the time the pump is still good, the problem is the fuel bypass line to fuel filter is still hooked up.by blocking that line off and pluging the filter tap the problem goes away. i have done this to at least 50 trucks here over the years, and everybody comes back apologizing that they doubted me.
TJC I make a point to tell members who are having drain back to at the least clamp off that line to #1 injector. All who have done it came back with a reply, out of 10 only 2 saw any difference. I would love to have 100% success with the clamp off or removal but it has not happened on my watch.
Hate to jump this thread, but my 7.3IDI has started doing the "start and die thing." Also runs rough, may need a IP before it is over. Not sure how to ID the fuel bypass line to test this idea. Any tips? THANKS!
Originally Posted by tjc transport
the reason i asked is that most people will replace the lift pump as being bad if the truck cold starts then dies and will not restart till it cranks a while because the fuel filter back drains through the pump. 99 percent of the time the pump is still good, the problem is the fuel bypass line to fuel filter is still hooked up.by blocking that line off and pluging the filter tap the problem goes away. i have done this to at least 50 trucks here over the years, and everybody comes back apologizing that they doubted me.
if you look at the fuel filter ,there is a bleeder, a line going to the injector rail, and a sending unit. remove the line and fitting, and install a brass plug in the filter housing, then cap off the line. should solve your start and die problem. this was an update issued by ford and international back in 89, but most people never heard about it, and most repair shops and dealerships forgot about it after 90 or 91
Mine was doing that a couple months ago, so I did the pull and plug, no more problem. Thanks to those contributing info to this forum, I knew to do that. I am running an electric pump now, and it is nice to have, as my fuel guages both don't work right, so it can be tough to know for sure when the tank is low, so every once in a while it may dry a tank. It primes up way faster than the mechanincal can. Spend the money and get a quality pump like a Holley red, that's what I have, my father has a cheapo, and there is no comparison. Check out ebay, I bought mine rebuilt with warranty for $50, the same price of most of the cheapo pumps.
Wow! I was suprised to find the line still on my truck. Will remove it this weekend. Really appreciate your input PLC7.3, tjctransport, and fellro86.
Also an elect. pump is a definite for the future. My gauges are DOA too.
This site/forum has been a lifesaver many times. Enjoy reading all the info even if it does not apply to me right now.
It will take some time and $ to get this truck halfway right, but there is no way in hell that I could do it w/o the help of this forum. Many thanks again to all.