Compressed Air: Copper Or Galvanized?
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Posting Guru
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From: Chicago Area
Compressed Air: Copper Or Galvanized?
I will be installing compressed air lines in my basement and attached garage. It seems that most do this in copper tubing. I am planning to use galvanized pipe.
I would appreciate any recommendations or comments from anyone with experience in this area.
I would appreciate any recommendations or comments from anyone with experience in this area.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Southern MD
Galvanized or 'black' pipe. I am leary of using thin-wall copper for (relatively high) pressures.
Be sure to put a dryer in the line, and (I think they're called) 'drop' lines to allow moisture to be drained from the lines, below the quick disconnect(s).
I saw a new system using aluminum tubing and connectors on 'Two Guys Garage' a while back. Not sure of the cost, but, you might consider that.
Be sure to put a dryer in the line, and (I think they're called) 'drop' lines to allow moisture to be drained from the lines, below the quick disconnect(s).
I saw a new system using aluminum tubing and connectors on 'Two Guys Garage' a while back. Not sure of the cost, but, you might consider that.
Last edited by 00BlueOvalRanger; Mar 23, 2005 at 09:46 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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I have never seen thinwall copper used for Air. I agree with 00BlueOvalRanger.
Black pipe is the way to go. But that is easy for me to say since I have all the tools to cut and thread it. With out those, it can be a real pain.
I saw those aluminum kits at Home Depot awhile back on the closeout sale rack. It was kind of expensive as I remember, but might be easier to work with.
Black pipe is the way to go. But that is easy for me to say since I have all the tools to cut and thread it. With out those, it can be a real pain.
I saw those aluminum kits at Home Depot awhile back on the closeout sale rack. It was kind of expensive as I remember, but might be easier to work with.
Posting Guru
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From: Northwest Fl
I took out my PVC and switched to copper a while back and am pleased with it. Much easier installation than cutting and threading iron pipe to the desired length. I don't know if it is true but I read somewhere that some galv. pipe had a tendancy to flake off and clog paint nozzles and that particular site recommended black pipe, again I'm not sure if that is true. They also said to use pipe dope instead of teflon tape for the same reason.
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From: State of Misery (Missouri
Originally Posted by 00BlueOvalRanger
Galvanized or 'black' pipe. I am leary of using thin-wall copper for (relatively high) pressures.
Be sure to put a dryer in the line, and (I think they're called) 'drop' lines to allow moisture to be drained from the lines, below the quick disconnect(s).
I saw a new system using aluminum tubing and connectors on 'Two Guys Garage' a while back. Not sure of the cost, but, you might consider that.
Be sure to put a dryer in the line, and (I think they're called) 'drop' lines to allow moisture to be drained from the lines, below the quick disconnect(s).
I saw a new system using aluminum tubing and connectors on 'Two Guys Garage' a while back. Not sure of the cost, but, you might consider that.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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I believe the call for threaded fittings or silver solder for air lines is an industrial fire safety item. A sweated copper air line would come apart at the joints in a fire then feeding compressed air into the fire from a remote compressor location. I don't believe this is a concern for a home shop system as any fire would also involve the compressor location. Also most home systems don't have sufficient air to be a long term fire concern.
Elder User
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From: State of Misery (Missouri
Originally Posted by midlf
I believe the call for threaded fittings or silver solder for air lines is an industrial fire safety item. A sweated copper air line would come apart at the joints in a fire then feeding compressed air into the fire from a remote compressor location.
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Senior User
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Silver solder is a higher temp but I believe you are correct that what they want is a brazed connection.
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by midlf
Also most home systems don't have sufficient air to be a long term fire concern.
The company I work for designs/installs copper compressed gas systems all the time - brazed Type K for clean air systems.. When the time comes to install the air piping (need finished walls first) I'll probably go with copper. If for no other reason than to practice sweating joints...
Posting Legend
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There are some good recent threads here on copper pipe with references to service pressure and solder types. Copper is probably the best pipe to use all around. Even the thin wall "M" type is good enough to use with the lead free solders we use. The older lead type solder produced a joint that was not as good for compressed air use.
You might want to go to a plumbing supply store for your fittings and tube rather than the home box store. I have seen some rather disturbing product quality in those places.
I have used galvanized iron in the past and have had no "flake" problems. I would think that anyone painting would use a filter before a paint gun anyway.
Check out my gallery for a point of use lubricator. DO NOT use a central lubricator on your compressed air system.
While you are checking for old threads check the archives, there is some great info there also on shop air systems.
You might want to go to a plumbing supply store for your fittings and tube rather than the home box store. I have seen some rather disturbing product quality in those places.
I have used galvanized iron in the past and have had no "flake" problems. I would think that anyone painting would use a filter before a paint gun anyway.
Check out my gallery for a point of use lubricator. DO NOT use a central lubricator on your compressed air system.
While you are checking for old threads check the archives, there is some great info there also on shop air systems.
Last edited by Torque1st; Mar 23, 2005 at 03:18 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Travelers Rest SC
I was told that for commercial applications, only black pipe is acceptable; having said that, most places I have worked use copper, and I have used both copper and PVC without problems. A lot would depend on if you have regulated air pressure, such as 100 psi in your lines, or unregulated, which would be 175 psi in the case of my compressor. Metal lines of any kind will help water condense out faster. Be sure to slope your horizontal runs, and put drain points at the ends.
Senior User
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Well I am happily suprised that I could use copper for air!
What is the difference between brazing and sweating?
Sweat uses solder, what does braxing use?
I have an acetelyne tank for brazing, but I never used it because I never knew about brazing.
Somebody fill me in on the difference!
What is the difference between brazing and sweating?
Sweat uses solder, what does braxing use?
I have an acetelyne tank for brazing, but I never used it because I never knew about brazing.
Somebody fill me in on the difference!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Elkhart IN
in a foam injection molding plant i worked at in florida, we used copper comming off of all three compressors. i dont remember the hp of the compressors, but they were about 15 by 10 by 10 tall, and the copper held up fine and is still there. the copper fed into a header, and then into a huge tank. from there it was welded black pipe.
Posting Guru
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From: Northwest Fl
Sweating involves the use of copper and a propane torch, while brazing requires more heat and the use of brazing rods available from NAPA and welding supply houses. Be sure to clean the inside of the joints as well as the ends of the copper tubing to remove the shellac finish they use to keep them from discoloring.