Anti-theft system problem on '98
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Anti-theft system problem on '98
I suspect that this has been covered a hundred times and I wish there were some way to search previous problems without going through the 400 some pages of posts.... so here goes. My PAT was activated when I heated up my truck and then got in, and started to shift into gear without turning the key on. Now I'm disabled. How do I reset (or can I) the PAT so that I can drive my truck and leave the car for my wife? (She's getting real tired of being stuck at home).
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks BillyBob69
Thanks BillyBob69. I actually tried your suggestion and several from the local dealership and it seems my starter burned out just at the same time I tried to restart after my attempt to put the truck into gear without turning on the key.
Your help was certainly appreciated, though.
Your help was certainly appreciated, though.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Now I know that with my remote starter I had in my bronco, when it decide to roll over and play dead, I unplugged the harness from the control box, then jumped the two wires that were spliced inline to the ignition wires, so that it seemed as though it was never there. I was able to start my truck normally then telling me that it was the control box. Don't know if you have tried that yet but worth a shot.
If you don't have the schematics to the control box harness, then trace the larger gauge wires to the ignition harness around the steering column. Now if this is an aftermarket unit, you will see that one of the main ignition wires was cut, then attached to two of the wires in the control box harness. Those two need to be jumpered together. You should also see one wire tapped into another main ignition wire but that wouldn't make a difference since it does not attach inline but just taps into it.
If you don't have the schematics to the control box harness, then trace the larger gauge wires to the ignition harness around the steering column. Now if this is an aftermarket unit, you will see that one of the main ignition wires was cut, then attached to two of the wires in the control box harness. Those two need to be jumpered together. You should also see one wire tapped into another main ignition wire but that wouldn't make a difference since it does not attach inline but just taps into it.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Waynesboro, PA
Woah, watch it there... You might end up frying some components if you start playing with the remote start units. I have done many installs of Autopage systems and the wires that I have to splice should not be hooked back up unless the unit is completely removed. To tell you the truth, the remote start should never have spliced ignition wires, they all should have a T tap. When you hit the remote start, it activates the 12v positive in the unit and sends it to IGN 1, IGN 2..., depending on how many systems and also sends 12v to the starter and solenoid for the programmed amount of time. If your vehicle has PATS then a DEI 555F is required to bypass that system. That is the only unit that you might see some splices on... Just a warning though, the ECMs are really sensitive and pretty expensive...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Well then I guess I shouldn't follow the intructions that come with mine. It wasn't a jumper to jerry rig the wiring, but merely to reconnect what was cut before. Could be different manufacturers with different setups.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shefferz
Electrical Systems/Wiring
2
Aug 21, 2009 04:07 PM
jeffdoerr
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
15
Jul 22, 2007 05:19 PM
