won't start
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: western ky
won't start
i finished putting my engine together finally, and was ready to start it up today. i had turned the engine to the 8 degree timing mark and put the dist. in with the rotor pointing at #1 and the points just starting to open. when i turned the key it cranked a bit then spurted gas out of the carb. i let it sit some and tried again and it done the same thing. i saw that it did spark some down below but luckily didn't ignite all the gas, cuz there was a lot. it didnt make a bad backfire just sprayed up gas. what aught i do next chance i get to work on it? i thought i had the correct method to set the timing, but could be wrong
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 422
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From: S.C. North Dakota
Justdan ,,, I usually set number one cylinder to top dead center,Timing pointer
at the O mark on the dampener pulley ,, drop in distributor with rotor pointing to
# 1 plug wire and give the starter a tap at the starter relay on the fender with a jumper wire. Most of the time I am close this way although not 100%. Points can be gapped after distributor is in place.
at the O mark on the dampener pulley ,, drop in distributor with rotor pointing to
# 1 plug wire and give the starter a tap at the starter relay on the fender with a jumper wire. Most of the time I am close this way although not 100%. Points can be gapped after distributor is in place.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Along with timing the distributer, check float level and make certain the needle valve is seating. You shouldn't have a geyser in any condition. It never hurts to double check your set up. Those pesky details can haunt you in the worst way.
Just to clarify what Rusty said, #1 TDC on the compression stroke. The piston is at the top of it's stroke with the timing pointer on 0 twice in a given cycle: end of the compression stroke, end of the exhaust stroke. That's why it's so easy to install 180* off.
Good luck, Mike
Just to clarify what Rusty said, #1 TDC on the compression stroke. The piston is at the top of it's stroke with the timing pointer on 0 twice in a given cycle: end of the compression stroke, end of the exhaust stroke. That's why it's so easy to install 180* off.
Good luck, Mike
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Napa
Originally Posted by Hypoid
Along with timing the distributer, check float level and make certain the needle valve is seating. You shouldn't have a geyser in any condition. It never hurts to double check your set up. Those pesky details can haunt you in the worst way.
Just to clarify what Rusty said, #1 TDC on the compression stroke. The piston is at the top of it's stroke with the timing pointer on 0 twice in a given cycle: end of the compression stroke, end of the exhaust stroke. That's why it's so easy to install 180* off.
Good luck, Mike
Just to clarify what Rusty said, #1 TDC on the compression stroke. The piston is at the top of it's stroke with the timing pointer on 0 twice in a given cycle: end of the compression stroke, end of the exhaust stroke. That's why it's so easy to install 180* off.
Good luck, Mike
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by ZombieSlayer
How do you determine the difference between the comp and exh stroke if you're a noob like me?
Zombie it easy!! The piston only comes up twice during a complete cycle...One is for exhaust (that will have the Valve open) and the other is on compression stroke...and that will blow your finger away from the plug hole!!
Easy!!
Russ
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Napa
Originally Posted by RapidRuss
Zombie it easy!! The piston only comes up twice during a complete cycle...One is for exhaust (that will have the Valve open) and the other is on compression stroke...and that will blow your finger away from the plug hole!!
Easy!!
Russ
Easy!!
Russ
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From: western ky
well it was off 180 degrees! duh on me. 
thanx a lot, i'm glad it was something obvious. it started and ran like a meanie for a bit but the carb floods bad. i ignored the stern warnings on the edelbrock handbook that u can't have more than 6.5 psi of fuel pressure.... my stock pump puts 7-9 psi. do i need the fuel pressure regulator they recommend?
thanx a lot, i'm glad it was something obvious. it started and ran like a meanie for a bit but the carb floods bad. i ignored the stern warnings on the edelbrock handbook that u can't have more than 6.5 psi of fuel pressure.... my stock pump puts 7-9 psi. do i need the fuel pressure regulator they recommend?
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From: western ky
hey i got the fuel situation straightened out, but now it won't get any fire. i loosened up the ignition coil to move the throttle return spring and after i tightened it back i haven't been able to get it to fire since. its not a old coil, and i have new plugs. i pulled out a plug and ran the starter and it hardly sparked if at all. the plug wasnt wet. i checked all the wires to the coil again and they're plugged in fine. no idea why it won't fire. can't tinker on it until daylite again, any ideas? i appreciate the help. hope its something dumb again
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Double check coil polarity; + to the supply voltage, - to the distributor.
Make sure connections are TIGHT, especially the factory style slip-on connectors. One of these had me running in circles for weeks, crimped on eyelet connectors solved that problem.
Any chance the ignition was left on without the motor running, the plastic top turned in the can, or the can crimped by the bracket? It's not hard to ruin new parts.
If you have an Ohmmeter, check the coil windings (for stock coils).
Primary: + to -
If the system runs a ballast resistor, about 1 Ohm. No ballast resistor, about 4 Ohms.
Secondary: - to distributor terminal
Normal range is 4K Ohms to 8K Ohms. Under 4K, probable short in the windings. Extremely high resistance (over 40K), winding is open, or bad connection.
Good luck, Mike
Make sure connections are TIGHT, especially the factory style slip-on connectors. One of these had me running in circles for weeks, crimped on eyelet connectors solved that problem.
Any chance the ignition was left on without the motor running, the plastic top turned in the can, or the can crimped by the bracket? It's not hard to ruin new parts.
If you have an Ohmmeter, check the coil windings (for stock coils).
Primary: + to -
If the system runs a ballast resistor, about 1 Ohm. No ballast resistor, about 4 Ohms.
Secondary: - to distributor terminal
Normal range is 4K Ohms to 8K Ohms. Under 4K, probable short in the windings. Extremely high resistance (over 40K), winding is open, or bad connection.
Good luck, Mike
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From: western ky
today i checked everything over and the coil tested normal. one slip on connector was worn bad and i replaced with an eyelet. i reset the timing as well. it will spark for just a second and start to fire when cranked then just crank over without firing. i can't find any bare or rubbing wires. also the first time i put in the dizzy it ran but it was sitting a little higher. now when i put it in it goes down further, where u can't see the seal anymore. the gear isnt chipped or anything but its hard to get it to go in all the way. still stumped for now
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: UK
dude, i had the exact same problem, but mine was blowing flames so hard outa the carb its destroyed it, i mean it runs but it really needs a new carb.....
the dizzy shaft wont go in all the way first time as it wont seat on the oil pump drive.
what i did is : put in the dizzy and tighten down the clamp a fiar bit then unplug the power to the dizzy and crank the motor a few times..
the dizzy should have now seated lower down in the hole as it was being turned and the pressure from the crank pushed it down as it lined up with the oil shaft drive
tighten the clamp all the way down now as there will be a load of slack
plug the power back in and go start the motor and beggin the timing process.. mines set to 10* btdc without the vac/advance on the dizzy... seems to run ok there... but that is with a knackered carb and a vaccume leak from somewhere......
confused the hell outa me first time round as the dizzy didnt seem to be seated but now i realise this is how it works... all was well in the land of EDGE once more ...
good luck dude.....
EDGE
the dizzy shaft wont go in all the way first time as it wont seat on the oil pump drive.
what i did is : put in the dizzy and tighten down the clamp a fiar bit then unplug the power to the dizzy and crank the motor a few times..
the dizzy should have now seated lower down in the hole as it was being turned and the pressure from the crank pushed it down as it lined up with the oil shaft drive
tighten the clamp all the way down now as there will be a load of slack
plug the power back in and go start the motor and beggin the timing process.. mines set to 10* btdc without the vac/advance on the dizzy... seems to run ok there... but that is with a knackered carb and a vaccume leak from somewhere......
confused the hell outa me first time round as the dizzy didnt seem to be seated but now i realise this is how it works... all was well in the land of EDGE once more ...
good luck dude.....
EDGE
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From: western ky
thanks for all the advice everyone. i got the dizzy seated right, and it still wouldnt start. today i undid some wires and checked them didnt find anything wrong yet, but turned the key and it started rite up. runs great! must be a problem between the battery and dizzy, i'm sure it will show itself again. after it warmed up i set the mix screws and the advance and idle speed with a dwell/tach. the dwell was normal also. drove it a bit and its a VAST improvement over how it ran with the older intake/heads/carb/log manifolds. i floored it on the highway and it flung off one of those clips that holds the linkage parts together tho. used a twist-tie to get back home, and found an extra clip. the linkage is real touchy tho, hard to get it how i would like it to feel. not much else i can do moving around the rods and whatnot. also need to put exhaust on it its obscenely loud 
Last edited by justdan; Mar 28, 2005 at 06:58 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
I have seen an electronic ignition that had spark for the first couple of seconds after you started to crank and then lost spark. In one case the box was bad and in the other the sensor in the dist was bad.
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