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I put in a post about a month ago about getting ready to reassemble the 352. Stock untouched bottom end, fresh top end with heads and regualr stuff. My question pertains as how to clean the block for good gasket mating. I didn't worry about the carbon buildup, when I cranked the motor by hand to make sure she hadn't frozen up from sitting, I just knocked the carbon off by hand as each cylinder reached TDC. But the main block surface is real dirty looking, can't imagine just throwing the gaskets on and bolting up the heads. Any advice, I was thinking maybe a light scrubbing with steel wool? Something to clean the light surface rust and get her ready. Lastly, I need a new valley pan, mine has a corner missing from where it cracked from a pushrod rubbing it. Where can I get one? Thanks for any input and advice. Blair
If there is such a thing as a time to go ****, this is it. Stuff oily rags in all the bores to catch any debris. If all you have to do is polish, use a fine steel wool. I keep 4/0 on hand just for gasket prep.
When you're ready to install, wipe surfaces with solvent soaked paper towels.
There are some surface prep disks that you use on a die grinder that aren't abrasive enough to hurt the areas you need to clean. They have plastic bristles that are very flexible and are great for exaclty what you are doing. The other major plus is that these disks aren't going to leave behind any metal pieces like steel wool does. I have used them plenty and have even used some for cleaning piston tops with great results.
I have had these for a while and can't remember the name for them right now. I'll get the name for them and post.
Last edited by Purely Ford; Mar 21, 2005 at 07:50 AM.
Ok, I found the name for them. They are called 3M Roloc Bristle disks. They are available in several forms and sizes. I used the yellow which are great for steel and iron. The white ones are good for aluminum and other softer metals. I suppose the white ones will work with steel and iron, but will work slower. These will remove any sign of old gaskets and clean the grime off of the metal without gouging the surface when used properly.
I did slow the rpms of my die grinder down quite a bit. You could just use a drill, but it will get tiresome holding a heavy drill to do this. Basically, slower speeds allows for more precise and careful cleaning in my opinion. I really doubt you are looking for speed as much as just getting the block as clean as possible without too much of a mess or damaging the sealing surfaces.
After you get done you do need compressed air to blow the debris out of the bolt holes. No matter how careful you have tried to be to not get debris in them I highly recommend thoroughly cleaning the bolt holes anyway and of course the cylinders.
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