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Aug 7, 2000 | 10:21 PM

kioolt

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From: Bel Air USA

Fan Switch

Oct 11, 2000 | 10:01 PM

priley

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Fan Switch

All;

A neighbor with a late model Explorer has an odd problem with his fan switch. He says the fan doesn't work at any of the three lower speeds, only on high. Ideas?

Thanks, Paul

Oct 11, 2000 | 10:39 PM

nitro94

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From: Wichita USA

Fan Switch

Usually will turn out to be a bad resistor block. High speed bypasses this block.

2000 XLT Flare Supercab Sport 5.4-Auto-355LS-Tow pkg-Bedrug-Xtang Tonneau

Oct 12, 2000 | 12:01 AM

priley

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Fan Switch

Thanks for the quick reply Nitro. Where is the resistor block located? How can you test it?

Thanks again, Paul

Oct 12, 2000 | 11:26 PM

nitro94

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From: Wichita USA

Fan Switch

The resistor is in the heater case so it can get cool air blowing over it. Sometimes inside behind glove box sometimes next to blower motor under hood. I think that is where yours is. Sorry I can't be more specific. I work an all makes and have to look for them. As for testing I get a wiring diagram and figure it out. Again I work on so many and they are all different. I do know on Fords you usually won't see any broken coils, it usually is a bad diode.

2000 XLT Flare Supercab Sport 5.4-Auto-355LS-Tow pkg-Bedrug-Xtang Tonneau

Oct 13, 2000 | 12:22 AM

PAUL_2

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Fan Switch

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Oct-00 AT 01:26 AM (EST)[/font][p] I think the resistor on the Explorers is in the evaporator case under the hood . Its a square connector , 3 wire I think ?? It should be held in place with 2 screws .

Oct 17, 2000 | 12:24 PM

priley

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Fan Switch

Thanks for the help. I'll pass this info on to my neighbor and help him look for it and test it if he likes. Otherwise, it's good info to have when he takes it to his mechanic.

Thanks again, Paul

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Apr 27, 2001 | 10:03 PM

wrenched

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From: Northern MS

Fan Switch

Hopefully you've got the problem solved by now, but the answer is in the blower motor resistor (in my '94 f-150 under the hood mounted on the blower housing). Although the whole assembly can be replaced for about $18, the actual culprit is the 'thermal fuse' or 'thermal cut-off', which is the little cylindrical electronic part with the plastic cone on one end. It can be replaced for about a dollar from Radio Shack or many other electronic supply houses. The original is rated at 121 C (centigrade). I couldn't find the exact replacement, so I used a 128 C, and it seems to work just fine. Make sure you replace it with the cone-shaped end going the same direction as the old one was.