Rough idle - lousy mileage
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Rough idle - lousy mileage
I have a 95 Aerostar 4.0 V6 2W w/110,000miles. At idle speed it runs a little rough, the headlights will flicker when it idles. I am getting 15mpg instead of the 20-24 mpg I used to get. I have put in spark plugs and wires to no avail. I have cleaned the Idle by pass valve, I have replaced the Ignition module. I replaced the fuel filter and the air filter too. I have checked the vacuum hose lines and they seem ok. I have put the code checker on it. It says I have an open SPOUT line. (goes between the ignition module and the powertrain control module (aka computer). which I have not replaced. The SPOUT line has something to do with the timing.
It runs fine at highway speeds. It starts easily. I am stumped. Any ideas.
It runs fine at highway speeds. It starts easily. I am stumped. Any ideas.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
If it says "SPOUT shorted to ground" that usually means your spark plug is fouled up and it is shorted out at the tip.
If it says "SPOUT open" that's the little square plastic plug on the firewall near the battery. Maybe it fell off, or the guy who did the tune up forgot to put it back in. When you disconnect that, the computer is taken offline, your timing advance and other engine functions are no longer controlled by the computer. Also, you might have a broken (or open) spark plug wire or one that is not fully seated on the spark plug or the coil pack.
Another possibility is that you mixed up the wires on the coil pack. The cylinder number is imprinted on the coil pack, make sure they are correct before you start chasing ghosts. It has happened to me more than once, and I'm considered the "careful" type!!!!!!!
If it says "SPOUT open" that's the little square plastic plug on the firewall near the battery. Maybe it fell off, or the guy who did the tune up forgot to put it back in. When you disconnect that, the computer is taken offline, your timing advance and other engine functions are no longer controlled by the computer. Also, you might have a broken (or open) spark plug wire or one that is not fully seated on the spark plug or the coil pack.
Another possibility is that you mixed up the wires on the coil pack. The cylinder number is imprinted on the coil pack, make sure they are correct before you start chasing ghosts. It has happened to me more than once, and I'm considered the "careful" type!!!!!!!
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
As to the headlights flickering, I'd inspect the headlight control switch. Just remove it and look at the connector on the back. Chances are it has melted. If everything looks good there, then inspect the battery cables, namely the negative cables.
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Rough idle - lousy mileage
Thanks for the inputs.
I found a plug (not the EEC-IV port) by the battery that is not plugged iinto anything. Actually there are two connectors not plugged - a single wire one and a four wire one. So that could be the problem.
I will check the spark plug wires but this problem precedes my putting in the new wires - But it is easy enough to do so I will do it.
If that doesn't work then I will play with the fuel pressure regulator. (Need to be surgeon to get in to it) This engine is a pain to work on.
As to the flickering lights - they flicker in sync with the rough idle.
I found a plug (not the EEC-IV port) by the battery that is not plugged iinto anything. Actually there are two connectors not plugged - a single wire one and a four wire one. So that could be the problem.
I will check the spark plug wires but this problem precedes my putting in the new wires - But it is easy enough to do so I will do it.
If that doesn't work then I will play with the fuel pressure regulator. (Need to be surgeon to get in to it) This engine is a pain to work on.
As to the flickering lights - they flicker in sync with the rough idle.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
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From: Dallas, Texas
There are a few plugs on the battery side that are not used. On my 1995 it had no hood light at all, So I went and got one from a yard. Now I only have One singel plug unused.
The other ones have little gray things plugged into them. I wonder if one of yours is missing.
The other ones have little gray things plugged into them. I wonder if one of yours is missing.
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From: Southern California
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Dallas, Texas
the one to the hood light had two female, The single is a gray female on mine. The rest have gray square plugs that are plugged into them.
I'll look under the hood later and see what has four wires going to it. I'll take a picture and post a link to it, so you can see them.
I'll look under the hood later and see what has four wires going to it. I'll take a picture and post a link to it, so you can see them.
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I jumped it and re-ran the code analyzer and the Spout problem is gone. I will tape the jumper in 'till I can get to the yard and snag one. That is the good news. The rough idle is still there. I am going to replace all of the vacuum hoses - can't hurt.
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I checked the spark plug wires against what is in my Chiltons for electronic ignition. There is no match. The diagram that they give in the book is for a 3.0 not a 4.0 so I guess there is a difference. The SPOUT fix seems to give it more pep. The vacuum lines looked good. I guess the next step is the fuel pressure control, unless there are any other ideas.
Thanks for all your inputs. keep em coming It gets a little better each time I fiddle with it.
Thanks for all your inputs. keep em coming It gets a little better each time I fiddle with it.
Last edited by whruppe; Mar 19, 2005 at 03:23 PM. Reason: mispelling
Postmaster
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by whruppe
I found the connector. It has two pink wires going into it. There is no cap.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Dallas, Texas
Mine was a red wire and Pink one with some Gray Square block stuck in there. Could be a jumper block that is taken out to read codes. I beat someone left it off after they were done.
I just cleaned my IAC valve and the best stuff I found yet that will not harm MAF or coatings is from the Ford Dealer. The can says Carb and Throttle body cleaner. It foams like crazy and all the varnish and carbon just vanished before my eyes! I now have to touch it to see if it's running
I just cleaned my IAC valve and the best stuff I found yet that will not harm MAF or coatings is from the Ford Dealer. The can says Carb and Throttle body cleaner. It foams like crazy and all the varnish and carbon just vanished before my eyes! I now have to touch it to see if it's running
