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Yup it's a torx t-40. It is very doable in less than a day, it took me about 5 hours to swap from my stock intakes to an Edelbrock setup. Make sure to drain some engine coolant from the radiator before starting the job and not to overtorque the upper intake down to the lower when reassembling because the upper intake cracks very easily from overtightening.
when i rebuilt my 88 F150 5.8 i didnt use any gasket sealer around the coolant passages when i put in the intake gaskets. i really didnt know if i needed gasket sealer or not so i didnt install any. i had a leak at the back drivers side that would not go away by tightening. and it was really bad too. so i had to take the whole intake off again and used some permatex #2 just around the coolant passages on the new intake gaskets. no leaks to date (about 2 years now).
also, i believe i threw the cork gaskets for the front and back and just used some permatex ultra copper RTV sealant (orange stuff). i know i did that on my mustang and it worked just fine. you need a nice thick bead though, might wanna test for gap first.
coplin did you fix your idle problems yet? is this why your replacing the gaskets?
Whats going on is I've got a small coolant leak under and behind the thermostat housing where the lower intake meets the block so for peace of mind I'm going to change out the gaskets and add some sealer. Then I plan to recheck the MAP sensor specs for the idle problem if that don't work Im going throw A ford Air Idle kit at it(spacer between IAC and Intake) and see what happens....
Replacing the gasket between the upper and lower manifolds corrected my rough idle problem on a 1990 351. The old gasket was hard and brittle with a wet appearance on top when removed. Looked to me like it was leaking fairly uniformly around the entire gasket.
I used "copper seal" on the new gasket and its been problem free for over a year. Aerosol spray type gives a uniform coating.
I had a lean burn code(sorry, don't remember the number) without a check engine light prior to gasket replacement.
Cleaning the passages in the upper manifold, IAC valve, and throttle body was the most time consuming part of the job. Hardest part of the job was keeping gasket material from dropping into the lower manifold passages while scraping off the gasket.
hey coplin, what's the air idle kit for? I think I have that on my truck (1/4" spacer between intake/valve). I've seen other vehicles without it and was wondering why mine has it?
Replacing the gasket between the upper and lower manifolds corrected my rough idle problem on a 1990 351. The old gasket was hard and brittle with a wet appearance on top when removed. Looked to me like it was leaking fairly uniformly around the entire gasket.
I used "copper seal" on the new gasket and its been problem free for over a year. Aerosol spray type gives a uniform coat.
With this copper seal stuff(is it Permatex or Loctite brand) which side of the gasket did you apply it to and did you use it for just the lower intake gasket or for the upper to lower as well?
hey coplin, what's the air idle kit for? I think I have that on my truck (1/4" spacer between intake/valve). I've seen other vehicles without it and was wondering why mine has it?
K&W markets copper seal. Any quality sealant should work. Use care to prevent any foreign material from entering the intake area.
My gasket had been replaced once before during an unrelated warrantee repair at a Ford Dealership. The Ford gasket they used and the NAPA gasket I used were identical, about 1/16 inch thick but not very resilient. In use it becomes brittle so I didn't want to rely on the gasket alone for a lasting seal.
As previously mentioned, the aluminum castings are brittle. Tighten fasteners carefully in the recommended sequence and don't overtorque.
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