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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:33 AM
  #1  
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From: ALCONA ONTARIO
New 3.0

As mentioned in an earlier post, I blew up the motor in my 92 XLT 3.0 just after christmas.
I bought a complete 93 with the same motor and a lot less kms. with the intension of swapping the motor into my 92, but on the weekend I found bad news... very bad news.
Seems the previous owner was too cheap to pay for antifreeze and opted to fill her with water instead.
I live in Canada, need I say more??
Any how, since the transplant takes so long to do, there is no way in h*** that I was going to take a chance on that motor, and so began my search for a more suitable doner.
The gods have blessed me!
Today I bought a complete motor off of a lady who (get this) had purchased a spare motor just in case she needed it.
The best part? Its new, yes new, not rebuilt, zero miles, never installed!
$500.00 canadian! Sorry to go on and on, just really excited. I will post again after the job is done with an update.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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I got you beat, I got a 1995 AWD that the owner put a New Factory tranny in then parked it for 4 Months. Total cost $400.00 and he was only 21 miles away
 
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 05:00 PM
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Before you put that engine in, it might be a good idea to prime the oil pump since it has been sitting in the garage for so long.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 12:56 AM
  #4  
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Make sure you break that puppy in properly. No synthetic for the first 15,000 miles. Trust me, those parts need to settle and wear properly. Once they have, go with whatever oil you want.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 09:46 AM
  #5  
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I get breakin oil from my Yamaha Dealer, All the factory replacement engines come with it in bottles for water craft. They just toss the stuff out. The owner saves it for me and I come by and get it.

Got to love those people that flip there water craft and hit the starter with all that water in the cylinders. Instant bent rod baby.


P.S. Water does not compress!!!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 05:09 PM
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Very true and for that act of stupidity and probably the limited understanding they have of an engine they go back to the dealer that sold them the watercraft and they have a heart attack when they see the bill .I remember before I ever touched a car engine or did anything myself my lawnmower wouldn't turn over so I send it to Sears to be repaired waited 2 weeks and it comes back the Sears repair center wouldn't touch it (0 Compression).

I bought a book for Techumseh engines and overhauled it afterwards it ran like new. It turned out to have a broken connecting rod (becuase of my lack of checking the oil weakening the cap on the rod and hitting the blade into a water main ) From taking that one engine apart it broadened my understanding of engines and when I saw the bill for my Aeros repairs I got annoyed at the prices for the relatively simple tasks they performed and next thing I know I'm replacing my water pump, fan clutch, tie-rod ends, heater core, others things I can't remember, and the worst of them all spark plugs no mechanics have made any money off me ever since .
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by khantyranitar
Make sure you break that puppy in properly. No synthetic for the first 15,000 miles. Trust me, those parts need to settle and wear properly. Once they have, go with whatever oil you want.
That's one way of looking at it, although Chevy might disagree with you. The Corvette has Mobil 1 in it from the factory.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #8  
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From: ALCONA ONTARIO
Oil Pump Prime

Thanks to everyone for all the advice.
I have a question pertaining to the oil pump prime; Can you rotate the pump through the distributor hole? If so, what type of drive does it have? i.e. hex?
Also, I noticed when I laid the new motor on it's side, some oil came out that was almost green in colour, is this some sort of storage oil?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Aerocook
Thanks to everyone for all the advice.
I have a question pertaining to the oil pump prime; Can you rotate the pump through the distributor hole? If so, what type of drive does it have? i.e. hex?
Also, I noticed when I laid the new motor on it's side, some oil came out that was almost green in colour, is this some sort of storage oil?
I've never seen green break-in oil. I suppose it could have been installed, I've just never seen any. How old is this engine and the oil that's in it? If it has been a few years since it has been manufactured, you might consider draining the oil that has been in it and put in new........ Just a thought because of condensation and the improvements of oil over the years.
As for your oil pump primer, you could an old distributor from a salvage yard and make yourself one. Take the distributor camshaft gear off and turn the shaft with a drill. As soon as you get the oil pump to prime, STOP. You don't want to wash away the assembly lube that is on your bearings.
If a hex-head bit on a drill will work, that is fine also. It just might take a long hex-head bit to reach down to the oil pump.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #10  
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You should be able to buy an oil pump primer fairly inexpensively. It's just an extended hex drive that you can put on your drill motor.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:58 PM
  #11  
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Not really Oil in there, It's a rust preventive to stop pitting from water and humity. They spray the inside with a coating of some kind too that sticks to the freeze plugs, Crank and bearings.


Also never lay a motor on its side, Stand it up in the rear housing, Or support the bottom with 4x4's under it. So it's laying like its in the Van.
 

Last edited by Muffinman; Mar 21, 2005 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:05 AM
  #12  
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From: ALCONA ONTARIO
Oil Pump Prime

Thanks folks.
I will be filling the engine with fresh oil and then priming the pump before I fire it up for the first time. As for the age of the engine??? 10 to 13 years?
This is a Ford replacement engine from a parts distribution centre, so I'm sure it was adequately protected for a long period of storage prior to use.
I will be pulling the oil pan off just to take a peek inside before install.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:14 AM
  #13  
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What is breakin oil? How heavy is its weight?
TIA,
Fordboy49
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:58 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Fordboy49
What is breakin oil? How heavy is its weight?
TIA,
Fordboy49
Usually break-in oil is an oil that is higher in abrasion and also has higher anti-scuff properties. Oil that is used for breaking in engines should be fairly thin to get into all the little nooks and crannies easier than a thick oil. The actual oil weigh will vary by application. A car break-in oil might be 5W-20 or even 10W-30, but a 10W-40 would be out of the question for a modern engine. However, break-in oil for a Harley-Davidson motorcycle might be straight 50W. My own opinion says a special "break-in" oil for a modern car or truck is not needed, but I'm sure a lot of experts will disagree with me. Other applications might need a special "breeak-in" oil. (My $.02 worth)

BTW, back in the mid-50s Chevrolet had a problem with their new V-8 engine not having the rings seat. Did you know the secret official fix was to pour Bon-Ami down the carburetor??!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:04 PM
  #15  
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Motorcycle Engines run Clutch based oils. It's more like transmission fluid and has no detergents that will bond to clutch plates.

They also use a weight scale that is not the same as Motor oil. So a 30w motor oil is equal to 80w Motorcycle oil.
 
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