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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 03:44 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
Of course in your case it was more an issue of making the damn tranny survive all the abuse.
True dat. That really was the main reason.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 03:52 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Saurian
I still look at it as an automatic is gonna zap 20% or so power...while the manual zaps about 10%. How far off base is this?
I think there are FAR too many variables to the whole concept to make make a statement like this. 20% of 100 horse is 20 horse. On a 500hp engine your auto is not sucking 100hp. On a 1000hp engine it's not sucking 200hp. Rob posted 70 horse as about the max for a C6 and I have seen most sites list them at about 60hp. This will stay relatively consistent. A stick is going to require a certain amount of HP to turn and that's all there is to it. It won't matter if you put 100 horse to it or 1000. It's also going to vary based on what model tranny you have.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 03:59 PM
  #48  
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Less you forget that the rotating mass (all the gears and such) inside a manual provide the same effect a flywheel does with cintifugle (now i know thats not spelt right)force, and this gives some benefit when shifting through transfer of motion (now and i'm getting to technical here?),
 

Last edited by mustange70; Mar 22, 2005 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #49  
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ok, ok I am still looking, so far I found one site that showed approx hp losses stating manuals at 15-17%, and autos at 20-25, and he compared a C6 behind a small block ford, against a muncie 4spd behind a 455 buick not exactly a fair test in my world, and not even same class of trannies. he did mention that in a manual they loose an additional 4% when in any gear that is not 1:1. but I will keep looking for the one I mentioned earlier.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 04:54 PM
  #50  
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From: GANS
I guarantee when pro dumped the clutch, the shaft snapped as a result of it.

Autos have a fluid coupling. While it is pretty stiff, it will absorb a lot of shock.. Almost like a shock absorber. Manuals, however, transmits the rest of the shock it doesn't absorb itself. (through the bearings, etc).
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 05:39 PM
  #51  
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Check out this link on the efficiency of a manual versus an automatic.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=81815&page=4
This is an engineering site with very good information in technical terms and reputable engineers. This site is strictly run by engineers for engineers.

Realize that they are talking about newer tranny's and not the transmissions of our vintage.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #52  
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I looked at that site too, but figured that it didn't show transmissions that were possibly bieng used by anyone on this forum in thier trucks, plus had some pretty technical stuff but not any real dyno tests. but it does have some good info. Please note I never said that manuals were worse than autos only that they weren't totally free of parasitic loss like some are claiming, and looking at both this site,and others using the low figure I found on one site as 15% for a manual that would mean Pro's 612hp would be loosing approx 92hp through his tranny, and even if you drop that to 5% that is still over 30hp.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:32 PM
  #53  
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I agree with your figures above. If he was running an automatic with say a 20% frictional loss it would be about a 122 Hp loss within the tranny not to mention the parasitic losses through rest of the drivetrain. A 25% loss would equate to a 153 Hp loss. So were talking about 30 Hp - 60 Hp difference between the auto versus the stick. People buy headers just to find 20 to 25 Hp so its not that insignificant but, I agree its not the end of the world either. The flywheel also has power robbing issues as well and can be decreased by running a billet flywheel or shaving it which isn't good for durability issues. One other consideration is that the manual tranny is a bit lighter than the auto. I don't have the figures right off hand but I will find them and report back.
 

Last edited by highboy 74; Mar 22, 2005 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:34 PM
  #54  
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But in 4-wheeling wouldn't you want the heavier flywheel? In an all-out race application I'd say light is right, but for 4-wheeling and trucks don't you want a ground-pounder of a flywheel?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:01 PM
  #55  
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A billet flywheel as all the strength and durability you need. I put one in last year, but that was mostly to reduce the chance of losing my legs in an explosion...I have no idea what the weight differences are.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:09 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by bremen242
manuals are cool, but granny gear manuals have a reverse as low as the granny first, which sucks if you are trying to clean your tires out when backing out of a mud hole.


mute point, shift into high range or rev the engine higher.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:33 PM
  #57  
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My buddies slogan is "Rev her till the valves float, then back off a hair..." Personally, i just let it sit against the rev limiter.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:45 PM
  #58  
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Humm, i just go till the pedle don't go down anymore, these 400 fords sure sounds good reving 5500-6000rpm
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:01 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by jopey
mute point, shift into high range or rev the engine higher.
i was in high range, and my rickety six was spinning at 4000+ rpms. Still needed less gear..

the rev limiter in this truck is the 1bbl carb. it doesn't really flow enough to rev past 4k with a load.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:04 PM
  #60  
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sounds like its time for a big inch small block, with a blower.... i wanna get ahold of one of those 427CID small block windsor motors.
 
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