I plan on upgrading to a set of Polyurethane bushings and will be drilling/chiseling the riveted fasteners off and replacing them with grade 8 bolts. Can anyone who has performed this fix recall the sizes of the bolts (7/16 x L ?) Thanks, Chet

 

7/16'' x 1 1/2'',I have gotten away with 1'' though.but the longer bolts help with getting everything lined up.

 

The poly bushings you want to use will rattle your teeth out. They transmit all the shock to the frame and body. Stick with the rubber ones.

Just my two cents...

 

I have poly radius arm bushings (energy suspension) and the cab is extremely silent. Probably some other brand is too hard and has the effect described above. I have never had a problem with that brand in any of the vehicles in which I have used it. Besides, knowing that those bushings will probably outlast the truck itself gives me peace of mind.

 

Thanks SRD4X4, It looks like the passengerside has already been replaced (No rivets), but the 2 bolts that are in the middle, coming down through the frame look like 1/2 thread while the other 2 side bolts are 7/16. I bought both sizes just in case.

Chet

 

There seems to be a consensus that on many of these trucks the passenger's side came from the factory with bolts while the driver's side has rivets. My '95 NEVER had the bushings replaced and there were bolts on passenger's side and rivets and one bolt on the driver's side. I replaced all the rivets with 1/2" grade 8 bolts, 2" long, although 1 1/2" will do. But like you said, the bolts on the passenger's side are 7/16" on the side and the bottom two toward the front are 1/2". When you take the passenger's side off you will notice the "factory look" of the hardware. Why Ford did that I don't know?? I would also disconnect shock and let it hang to ease replacement. One thing I found is that if you have an air chissel you can put a slice right in the center of the rivet head and then go from the side and that rivet will shear right off. And some expensive "hard metal" drill bits help also (available at Sears etc). Bill '95 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Eddie Bauer

 

You are dead on the money Bill, now that I look at my 95 the passenger side bushing bracket does have factory hardware on it (1/2" and 7/16" bolts). Must be because the location of the the CAT generated enough head that they wore out faster on that side. For the guys that drill the rivits out, do you drill the actual rivit head or the "peened" side ?

Thanks, Chet

 

As far as drilling the rivet, drill the rivet head off. Just go right in the center with like a 1/4" bit first, then use a 7/16" or 1/2" bit but don't go all the way through the bracket and make sure you are centered. Then once the head is drilled off take a center punch with hammer and pop it out. Go to Sears or Home Depot and get the "Hard Metal" bits and you will go right through those rivets no problem. Oh, one other thing, watch out for that brake line when you drill through the frame to enlarge the holes, its right behind some of the rivets. Bill '95 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Eddie Bauer

 

i recently replaced my radius bushings with polys and not long after i rereplaced them with rubber ones. they give a bad ride and will help you feel every bump in the road

 

is trw the only ones who still make the rubber? who else does. i have yet to see a set in 5 or so years.. everyone, including fords replacements are poly. infact fords polys are made by moog. it is cast tight into the front side of the bushings, it is also stamped on the back side of the washer..

 

I just finished putting a set of Polly Urethanes (Energy Suspension $19.99), Thanks for the tip Pantera-nm. It seems to ride just as good as before. You can still get the rubber ones at Advance Auto. Now for my tips and questions. Remove BIG radius rod nut with 1-1/8 Socket (Impact wrench will help allot + spray with solvent) Get a set of "Cobalt tipped" drill bits for hardened steel available at Sears $60. (Thanks 95F150SuperCab) Center punch the rivet heads and 1st drill 1/4 inch then 1'2 inch and the rivet heads will melt like "butta”! Almost the easiest part of the whole job was removing rivets. Make sure you drill into the shaft of the rivet a tad so you can punch it out easier. It's important to keep the hole straight, but you can adjust the angle and go slow if you start out crooked. Once rivets are out you can remove the bracket, replace front bushing and put bracket back in place. Note that this all should be done with the front tires still on the truck. We made the mistake of removing it and had to wrestle the radius arm back in position after the suspension sagged so the bracket would line up. Replace back bushing and apply some never seize here. Feed the new 7/6 x 1-1/2L grade 8 bolts + lock washers and driver side is done! Passenger side on many years has bolts instead of rivets. Ordinarily this would make things easier, but because the exhaust is about 2 inches away from the frame rail, it's tight work. The 2 side bolts are 18mm you can hold the backing nuts with a 19/32 box/open end or metric equivalent to get them off. Now the tricky part that I can share, The nuts on the bottom are 21mm and screw onto 2 bolts in the frame rail that are both going through a "backing plate". You will not need to keep these bolts from turning because of this plate (Yeah!) Wind the 1/2 nut off with impact and save the backing plate/bolts for later use. Reassembly is just like the drivers side from there. Hope this makes sense. Now who can tell me what a front-end shop gets for radius arm bushing replacement so I can tell my wife I just saved her $400 ?????!

Chet

 

Why are you drilling the rivits out? Are they loose?

Tim

 

I drilled the rivits out to replace the worn radius arm bushings that were making a popping/clicking noise. Some guys pull the axle forward to replace them, but I think this is the reccomended method according to Ford's TSB.

Chet

 

My truck just started making that "banging" noise in the area where the radius arm attaches to the frame. Guess I'll be replacing the bushings.

What is the purpose of the radius arm? What exactly does it do?

Thanks

 

The radius arm locates the front axle so it does'nt move forward or back.